Thursday, September 27, 2007

Journey of 4 pilgrims to Siem Reap- Day One-15 August 2007, Wenesday

The Arrival!

The ever-elongated trip to Siem Reap was finally happening. It took us about 2 hours to reach Siem Reap. However, I only managed to sleep for the first 30 minutes then was wide-awake. Unlike the pouring rain in Kuala Lumpur, it was only drizzling at Siem Reap. The place looked very much like Malaysia, especially the climate, greenery, the Minangkabau structured building and the people’s costume. Only one thing slacked, the rudeness of the immigration officer. They really need to learn few things from Malaysia.

Finally after queuing for almost 30 minutes, we were cleared from the immigration. We were pre-informed that it was indeed cheaper to get a tuk-tuk (a two wheeler, a little like auto) to get to the old market and hence, eagerly waited for one. There were buses, minivans, taxis and even motorbikes but no sign of tuk-tuk. On the corner of right hand side of the airport entrance, there was a small counter selling taxi/minivan/motorbike coupons. Our mind was all fixed on tuk-tuk so getting a taxi was a big NO, NO. Besides, the cost of taxi was about US5 and that’s absurd.


Therefore, we stood there for few seconds looking so blur, lost and was praying hard for a tuk-tuk to arrive. Just then, a young shabby looking guy approached us quietly and offered tuk-tuk for US2. Not understanding whether he is charging US2 per trip or per person, we tried really hard to communicate with him till akka mistakenly approached the airport staff and asked him to translate to the tuk-tuk driver. Oh what a bummer! One thing let to another, we ended up paying US5 for taxi.


The Minagkabau Style Airport


The Hunt for Tuk-tuk, Guesthouse and Yummy Food!

Our taxi driver was very fluent in English but was dumb headed and refused to take us to the place we had in mind. After explaining to him like a zillion time that all we wanted was a cheap room equipped with AC, he finally managed to stop at several guesthouse which was not only far, had no rooms, no AC, too expensive and etc. After walking in and out of 4 to 5 guesthouse, we came across Shadow of Angkor (previously known as Resmei Angkor Guesthouse), which was indeed the top list in akka’s place to stay. Sigh! Double sigh!

For US18 per day, we were offered a clean big room with 2-queen size bed, attached bathroom, AC, heater and tv. Along with the room, we managed to hire the guesthouse tuk-tuk driver, Sokhphal to take us to the Angkor Wat’s headquarters to get our three-day pass and then to Bakheng Hill to see our first sunset. It was a good deal and what more a backpacker need!

We managed to settle everything in the nick of time expect for of rumbling stomach. It was our very first meal in Siem Reap and we opt to go for a good restaurant. Hence, headed to the famous Khemer Kitchen opposite old market. The interior was nice and cozy; food was ok and cheap (or that’s what we though up to that time).

We were lucky to be in the restaurant by then as it was poring heavily. Ah ha! The moment of truth, the monsoon has arrived. However, by the time we finish our lunch, the rain stopped. We walked around the market area before heading back to our guesthouse to change for serious climbing at Bakheng Hill. It took us almost 15 minutes to reached the Angkor Wat’s headquarters which looked a lot little like toll plaza. As soon as we got our 3 days pass, which cost us US40 per person, we headed straight to the bustling Angkor Wat instead of Bakheng Hill as the mountain would be slippery and was not save to climb. Sigh!


The Shadow Of Angkor Guesthouse


The Shadow of Angkor's very own Restaurant


Guesthouse's resting area on first floor



The old market


Other Guesthouse-The famous "Ivy Guesthouse"



The restaurants at old market


The behind alley at old market- the restaurants


The people:



The kids selling things at the alley near old market


Ladies selling bread



Street stalls selling grilled banana


More street stalls on wheels


Street stall selling counterfeit books


Paintings sold at old market


Dried meat sold at old market..dont even ask what meat it is?


The way to travel in Siem Reap:

Self made tractor mobile ..sometime things sometimes people..lots ans lots of them


The famous two wheeler- tuk-tuk


The bicycles

Angkor Wats Headquarters-The toll plaza look alike


WHAT..Its closed?

Angkor Wat was simply magnificent even from the outside. Tourist crowded the place even in the pouring rain. We lingered at the main entrance for almost 15 minutes just simply admiring every detailed structure of the temple. A long huge terrace about 100 meters with two huge pond on either side linked to the main door and then continued another 100 meter to main entrance of the temple. There were two libraries and ponds on either side along the broad walkway. A grand walkway indeed!

By the time we reached the second entrance at about 5.30 pm, the guard refuse to let us in as the temple was officially closed. Sigh! Despite being frustrated, we just lingered around trying catch the glimpse of sunset from the pond. We waited and waited and waited, but due to heavy clouds and drizzling rain, the sun never showed up. Sigh!


Angkor Wats pond


The bustling crowd in drizzling rain at 5.30 pm



The reflection of Angkor Wat at the pond

The monks...young and old


The One Dollar Mantra!

Feeling disappointed, we headed out to find Sokphal and his tuk-tuk. Finding our tuk-tuk at the waiting area was the most horrible moment throughout the trip. Not only all tuk-tuk looked alike but even the tuk-tuk driver looked alike. Oh bummer! The moment we crossed the road to find Sokphal, the kids rushed forward and harassed us to buy all sort of things, from books, to post cards and even bracelets, all for US 1dollar. The kids are all young, persistence and refuse to neither leave nor listen what we have got to say. They have the ability to manipulate and put spell on tourist to buy their product with pitiful faces. Their mantra went on and on hypnotizing us…“ Madame…please..US1dollar”. Avoiding to be trapped under their pitiful spell, we refused to have any eye contact with anyone. Luckily, we managed to get Sokphal in time to get away from that awful place.


Too lazy to find tuk-tuk, we agreed to book Sokphal for tomorrow’s sunrise at Bakheng Hill, along with other temples in Angkor Thom and Tha Phrom. Not wanting to stay in our room for the night, we went out and explored the market area. We managed to find a bakery called Blue Pumpkin and bought bread for tomorrow’s trip, as we would be leaving very early and wont be able to find shop for breakfast. But somehow, only after paying did Ramnah realized that all bread goes for 50% off after 7 pm. Sigh! What a waste!

The Awful tuk-tuk waiting area opposite Angkor Wat


Ladies and men all ready to spellbound with their mantra, "madame..please 1 dollar"

The discovery 50% off bakery after 7- Blue Pumpkin-

Yummy ice cream ! Damn expensive..

The colourful sweet


First Attempt of Local Street Food- Siem Reap’s Maggie Goreng

We lingered around the market till the shops closed. Though Mok and Ramnah were hungry, they refuse to eat till the aromatic Maggie goreng’s from the street stall lingered at their nostrils. The smell was so good, they agreed to test and share one packet. To their surprise, the street Maggie goring turned out to be a delicious one.

Feeling really exhausted and the need to be awake by 3.00 a.m. tomorrow for sunrise, the decision was made to sleep early. However, it was too early for me so I lingered outside till the guesthouse staff switched off the light at 11. Sigh, off to bed!

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