Ras Dashen - Simien Mountain, Ethiopia
4550 meters
3rd highest in Africa
Day 1
24 January 2014
Camp I Geech
Everthing was arrange by Birhanu, my couch surfer, which sort of made my life so easy but of course it comes
with a price! My transportation was US150 one way! We
drove to Debark, 2 hours away from Gondhar. Registered and picked up my
scout, 65 years old Debe. I insisted on porter as i didnt want to carry my tent/sleeping bag etc. My porter was, 18 years old boy, Chernat. Ate my breakfast and drove to Sankaber the park to start my trek on that moment.
It was hot, really hot and both my scout and porter was moving super fast. The first half of the journey was not so bad. I skipped lunch as I felt it was unnecessary!
The second part of the journey was up and up and up, I really gave up. At one point I was taking one step at a time. Finally after 4 hours we reached the Gerich camp.
No one was staying at the dorm so the whole room for my self. I just stayed in the room till it was time for sunset. I ate my Shiro and Injera and slept.
Day 2
25 January 2014
Camp Chennak (3600 m)
It was hot, really hot and both my scout and porter was moving super fast. The first half of the journey was not so bad. I skipped lunch as I felt it was unnecessary!
The second part of the journey was up and up and up, I really gave up. At one point I was taking one step at a time. Finally after 4 hours we reached the Gerich camp.
No one was staying at the dorm so the whole room for my self. I just stayed in the room till it was time for sunset. I ate my Shiro and Injera and slept.
Day 2
25 January 2014
Camp Chennak (3600 m)
The
next
day's point was Chenek, proximately 6 hours. We walked up and up an up finally reached one looking point, Imet Gogo. It was so beautiful, but what was more beautiful was looking at my scout admiring the view, like he is seeing it for the very first time. Looking at him, I miss my grandpa, a lot!
I asked, "chenak". And at the point he showed me Chenak, far down! Oh dear, we were up there just for the view!!!! Grrr!
So we walked down on the opposite direction. From that point onwards it was just simply up. People were going on a donkey while I struggle one step at a time, with the heat, with my leg and with thin air. Almost everyone that I see will over me donkey. "I think you should take donkey, its not that easy to get to Ras Dashen!" I said no and continued walking, when we finally reached up with multiple stops. We walked further, till we reached a flat ground for break with other group.
From there onwards, its just down, down down and I was all ready to go so anxiously despite my blisters. But both my scout and Debe wanted rest and sleep. So we rested for almost an hour before we went down down down.
Finally after endless walking, we reached Chenak Lodge. I prefer to call it highway lodge as every car/lorry/vehicle that pass by will stop there for food or lodging. It was busy all the time. So you can imagine amount of attention I had!!!!
Room was not so bad. My dinner was shiro and injera again!
I asked, "chenak". And at the point he showed me Chenak, far down! Oh dear, we were up there just for the view!!!! Grrr!
So we walked down on the opposite direction. From that point onwards it was just simply up. People were going on a donkey while I struggle one step at a time, with the heat, with my leg and with thin air. Almost everyone that I see will over me donkey. "I think you should take donkey, its not that easy to get to Ras Dashen!" I said no and continued walking, when we finally reached up with multiple stops. We walked further, till we reached a flat ground for break with other group.
From there onwards, its just down, down down and I was all ready to go so anxiously despite my blisters. But both my scout and Debe wanted rest and sleep. So we rested for almost an hour before we went down down down.
Finally after endless walking, we reached Chenak Lodge. I prefer to call it highway lodge as every car/lorry/vehicle that pass by will stop there for food or lodging. It was busy all the time. So you can imagine amount of attention I had!!!!
Room was not so bad. My dinner was shiro and injera again!
Day 3
The third day we went off to Ambigo by 7.00 am. It was suppose to be along walk. First up, which almost gave up and then down, down down for almost 4 to 5 hours to Meshaha Valley. It was hot and dusty and my heel was so sore with blisters. I never stop, I walked and walked and walked till we reached this village.
By then my water supply was low. Chernat left and no where to be found. I realised that my scout didn't know the way and was inquiring the local people to give direction! By the time we went on 3rd down, I was dragging my feet. It was hot and stuffy and I was burned!
We walked some more. I was really slow, but I never gave up. Multiple stop. I was so thirsty I was asking my scout if i could drink river water! Can you imagine!!! He strictly said NO!
So we continued walking. Only when I saw the site of the village, I was smiling! Water! There is hope! So I asked the local villager who was guiding us, how far is Ambigo? He said really far! Sigh!!!
So when we finally reached his village, I asked for water form the local people. Without any hestitation I drank it. And my oh my, it tasted so wonder full!
I was energized and was all ready to walk for hours. But to my surprise, just 10 minutes from that place, Chernat was setting up the tent! Duh!!!'
I was tired. I just lied down in the tent. Since I didnt have a cook, I only depended on my food supply, dry bread and jam! But good things always happens for backpackers, and a girl! The guide from another group, offered me soup. Drank and slept!
Day 4
Today,
woke up 430 am. Packed everything, which means including my tent as Chernat wanted
to see Ras Dashen (yes for teh very first time). Three blind mice to conquer Ras
Dashan The first part of the trek was in dark, and difficult and tiring. The air is so thin!
By then it was bright. I realised the trek was not that difficult! The have path all the way up to the mountain! But we use short cut, which means alot of hiking. For simple mountain, it was really difficult, and I don't understand why!
Every time I ask, they show me a peak and says, Ras Dashen. Everytime, I get close by, they show me another, and another and another! Yes, I gave up on walking especially with my blistered leg! But I am very determined, so I walked and walked and blindly walked.
The mountain is like illusion, it looks near but far away and all peak look high and when you get nearer it doesn't seem so. Finally we reached Ras Dashen! It was enless walk on flat ground till we reached a huge rock! No path upwards except for rock climbing. It was the best part of whole Ras Dashen. Free climb! One wrong step and I could just fall. Finally after 30 minutes, I was up. It was magnificent, both of us was so stunt, we just stood looking. My scout asked Chernat to climb as well.
It must be the thin air, as all 3 at one point got really crazy and started to take pictures. Funny pictures. It was fun! I loved it.
We stayed for 30 minutes and started to walk down, down down. As usual I was slow. I got even slower when I know I have to spend another night at Ambigo. Finally at bout 4 we reached the camping site.
Today, I didn't want to isolate my self. So I was outside talking and playing with the local kids. I manage to get Shiro and Injera from the village for dinner for 25 bir. I love solo backpacking!
Day 5
28 January 2014
Camp Chennak
By then it was bright. I realised the trek was not that difficult! The have path all the way up to the mountain! But we use short cut, which means alot of hiking. For simple mountain, it was really difficult, and I don't understand why!
Every time I ask, they show me a peak and says, Ras Dashen. Everytime, I get close by, they show me another, and another and another! Yes, I gave up on walking especially with my blistered leg! But I am very determined, so I walked and walked and blindly walked.
The mountain is like illusion, it looks near but far away and all peak look high and when you get nearer it doesn't seem so. Finally we reached Ras Dashen! It was enless walk on flat ground till we reached a huge rock! No path upwards except for rock climbing. It was the best part of whole Ras Dashen. Free climb! One wrong step and I could just fall. Finally after 30 minutes, I was up. It was magnificent, both of us was so stunt, we just stood looking. My scout asked Chernat to climb as well.
It must be the thin air, as all 3 at one point got really crazy and started to take pictures. Funny pictures. It was fun! I loved it.
We stayed for 30 minutes and started to walk down, down down. As usual I was slow. I got even slower when I know I have to spend another night at Ambigo. Finally at bout 4 we reached the camping site.
Today, I didn't want to isolate my self. So I was outside talking and playing with the local kids. I manage to get Shiro and Injera from the village for dinner for 25 bir. I love solo backpacking!
Day 5
28 January 2014
Camp Chennak
I
was unable to walk as I badly hurt my heel due to my new not so good shoe! Besides i was also having my period ( yeah I am not sure whats with me and climbing and period!). So instead of hurting myself somemore, I decided to get a mule to get me up. We woke up at 4 to disassemble the tent and pack and started to walk by 5 am in the dark.
Exactly, where is the donkey? Walking ahead of me. Only after an hour I sat on the donkey. Not a good ride, but I survived. We went for almost 2 hours before we stopped for breakfast and I had the best bread ever in a little shop at the village!
Another an hour before we reached the peak of the mountain. All through out the ride I was praying the donkey will be fine and I was felling so sorry for it. The worst was when they hit the donkey to make it move. My god, what a nightmare. I don't want to sit on a donkey anymore!!!
And to make it worst, the donkey fell and I fell. So, form there onwards I started to walk again. It was probabaly just 1 hour or less to reach Chenak. But instead of getting back to the lodge, my scout took me somewhere else. I was cursing and wanted to strangle him. HE spoke no English and I spoke no Armaric. So I had no choise but to just follow him.
Finally he stooped at a looking point, facing Chenak Lodge and asked me to sit. He also sat. Just looking admiring the view. To me be mad at him to make me sit there or to admire him to appreciate beauty, I am not sure.
Then, he pointed at the mountain saying "Wolia Ibex" and started to count . Only then I realised that all he wanted was to show me Wolia. So sweet. We sat there like an hour before heading back to the lodge!
Exactly, where is the donkey? Walking ahead of me. Only after an hour I sat on the donkey. Not a good ride, but I survived. We went for almost 2 hours before we stopped for breakfast and I had the best bread ever in a little shop at the village!
Another an hour before we reached the peak of the mountain. All through out the ride I was praying the donkey will be fine and I was felling so sorry for it. The worst was when they hit the donkey to make it move. My god, what a nightmare. I don't want to sit on a donkey anymore!!!
And to make it worst, the donkey fell and I fell. So, form there onwards I started to walk again. It was probabaly just 1 hour or less to reach Chenak. But instead of getting back to the lodge, my scout took me somewhere else. I was cursing and wanted to strangle him. HE spoke no English and I spoke no Armaric. So I had no choise but to just follow him.
Finally he stooped at a looking point, facing Chenak Lodge and asked me to sit. He also sat. Just looking admiring the view. To me be mad at him to make me sit there or to admire him to appreciate beauty, I am not sure.
Then, he pointed at the mountain saying "Wolia Ibex" and started to count . Only then I realised that all he wanted was to show me Wolia. So sweet. We sat there like an hour before heading back to the lodge!
The
rest of the day was spent doing nothing. I meet a guide, Yeshu who was so keen on meeting and talking to me. Too much talking and too much flirting. But there is always good part of this, my dinner was paid for :p
Hurray for Solo backpacking!!
Day 6
29 January 2014
Gondar
Woke up early and my breakfast free thanks to Yeshu. Just sat outside looking at people till my ride came at 10.
So how much did it cost me:
Porter : 600 bir (6 days)
Scout: 840 bir (8 days)
Park Fees: 720 bir (8 days)
Lodge: 240 bir (3 nights)
Food at the Mountain: 100 bir (3 dinner)
Tent/Mattress/sleeping Bag: Free
Food supply: 1000 bir (yeah ridiculous!)
Day 6
29 January 2014
Gondar
Woke up early and my breakfast free thanks to Yeshu. Just sat outside looking at people till my ride came at 10.
So how much did it cost me:
Porter : 600 bir (6 days)
Scout: 840 bir (8 days)
Park Fees: 720 bir (8 days)
Lodge: 240 bir (3 nights)
Food at the Mountain: 100 bir (3 dinner)
Tent/Mattress/sleeping Bag: Free
Food supply: 1000 bir (yeah ridiculous!)
Donkey/mule: 240 bir!
Transportation Gondar-Debark:US300 (yeah I know I got cheated, so much for trusting CSer!)
So overall: US200 + US300: US500
Transportation Gondar-Debark:US300 (yeah I know I got cheated, so much for trusting CSer!)
So overall: US200 + US300: US500
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