Thursday, February 27, 2014

Ethiopia: The country that I loved at the end of 3rd Week!


18-21/1/2013
 I hate Addis moment
4 days at Addis was horror. At one point I just wanted to scream and get out. Nothing happened as planed! My couch surfer first didn’t answer, and finally  when someone (Yonas) picked up, it didn't work out; the place I stayed was far away,  there was no water, the weather was  I was paying for all food and transportation and I think I made the couple fight almost everyday! Why only god knows!

Furthermore, we were frequently moving in circle from Kenyan Embassy to arat kilo to amist kilo to piazza! And yes despite moving all around, I didn't visit Lucy (3.2 million years old skeleton). At that point Lucy seems not a priority at all as I was more keen on getting my bus ticket Bahir Dar!


Due to holiday, distance and stupid couch surfer I never manage to get a bus tickets. When I finally went to the ticket office, I was told the only bus available was on 23rd February or 24th! Twice, I was promised to get to the bus stop by 5 am but it never happened as it was holiday and no transport, its too dark  before 5am and the best, I was talking to my girlfriend as we fought! 

On the 21/3/2014, when I left the house I took my bag with me. I was even all ready to fly. But as usual things didn't work out, so ended up getting ticket to Gondar the next day for US200 and staying at a hotel in the city. 


But not all things are bad. As without Yonas, I wouldn't have discovered fruit juice shops, seen and celebrated Timkat that close, visit Entoto Mountain and Marketo and walk around the city at 12 midnight after Liverpool vs Ashton Villa game! And I must say, due to that delay, I meet worst and best people on the road!


Timkat  at Jalmeda
coming soon
Marketo 

coming soon

Entoto Mountain 


Palace at Entoto Mountain



At George



















Yohanes, My addis couchsurfer

23/1/2014
Gondar, What laid back town!
Getting to Gondar was the best thing that could ever happen to me.  My couch surfer, Birhanu was eagerly waiting for me at the airport with my name printed on the piece of paper. That's so sweet, and of course eventually the money came from my pocket! It seems so easy to host in Ethiopia!

Apparently, there is nothing much to see and do in Gondar apart from 3 main important sites  (Fasilides Castle, Fasilides Bath, Debre Birhan Selassie Church) and all can be done in a day!

So what did I do for the rest of the day? Just laid back and chill out with cool guys! Yes, me, hanging out with bunch of boys at 5 pm eating chat, smoking and drinking cola! "Chat is not drug, its not addictive and you do not hallucinate! Its only to relax and make you awake when you study!" So that what they claim! So were we awake to have lesson! Indeed, my informal Aramaic class! Which was fun and indeed helpful! I wished I had learned more. But I must say, with or without chat, those boys was hilarious!

Later in the night, we went drinking and listening to going to local night club/bar for shoulder dance! t was so good, I really enjoyed the show. The music was so good and the dance was even better. Mix of some Indian, African jumbo mambo culture!

What a awesome day!



























23/2-28/2
Where is Ras Dashen! 

Refer to ras dashen

Went back to Gondar to meet Birhanu.  As I said earlier, I talked to much to Yeshu and found out that I paid a lot for the transportation. When I asked Birhanu about this, he got mad. He got even mad, when I said the balance that he had from my food supply was sufficient for bus fair.  So the rest of the night at traditional bar, despite having good music, I didn't enjoy it at all!







Me with the local kids at Ambigo
Me with the locals at Chennak

Chernat and Debe
Debe and me









































29-30/1/2014
Axum : Not So Impressive despite his name!

Went to the bus stop so early in the morning and got stuck at the last row with another 2 white person. We were flying up and down all the time. The bus was overload with people, things and smell!  For an old bus, there were two ticket collector and multiple check ups on the tickets. And multiple stops due to breakdowns, pick-drop passengers, road construction and also check by the police officer! No wonder when I asked how far is Axum, the local never tell the time but km!!!

Finally reached Shire by 4 pm. Upon arrival at Shire, we took another transport to Axum. Not that easy but manageable. The journey from Shire to Axum was pretty good. I sms my couch surfer, Johny saying I will call upon arrival.

He picked me up and went to his apartment, served me food and left, as he had something to do. When he came back, we talked and fought and said good night! Don't even ask!
The next day, Johny was suppose to assist me on my traveling but he got pissed last night so he said he had to go to University and I had to go to the site by myself. I cared less, I never depended on people to move around anyways! 

But good thing always happen to good people, like me! So when I walked to the tourist office, I meet the same tourist who inquired about Simien, upon my arrival in Axum yesterday!  So somehow, through the local people/guide/whatever, we negotiated tuk tuk for 150 bir for to visit the site. 


Apart from him, we had another local tourist, Wasihun with us. At that point,  he is the best thing happened in Axum. Not surprising, but somehow, we started talking and became friends. The moment we finished with the tour, we had lunch (all paid for). I was telling him about getting a hotel and he suggested his hotel, which is not only cheap but also near by the bus stop. I was jumping with joy. One good thing that Johny did was give me a spare key! I went to see the hotel, paid and moved out! Problem solved! 

Wasihun wanted to pray, (yes he prays all the time!!!, more then I do in my life) so I suggested St Marry of Zion. There is something magical about this church. Wasihun said that not all people get the privilege of coming to this church, only the chosen one! So I must be lucky! 

An interesting thing happened, which must be shared and this is the 3rd time in my backpacking experience it happened! I was taking pictures when Wasihun was getting blessing from a priest. One thing lead to another, the priest was telling story about the church and the American man that had vision of St Marry of Zion and donated money for renovation. From the back of the church we went front, then to his house and we ate dinner with his family.  It was one of the best food ever and the the priest was keep on feeding me.  How many people would have this kind of privilege, only solo FEMALE backpackers! :p


Wasihun is very safe traveler. He is not that adventurous. So, by 8.30 he was jumping for us to leave the priest house to get back to the hotel! We chill out a little longer, had dinner and said good night! 











Queen Sheeba's Pool













Queen Sheba's palace


St Mary of Zion



























My friend Wasihun




















31/1 - 2/2/2014
Mekele : I love 6 degrees of separation theory 
I woke up early as we need to get early bus to Mekele. With Wasihun, I did less talking.  We stopped at Adigrat (I think) for breakfast, and I ate one of the best full ever. The we continued to Mekele!

My couch surfer Anatarin, couldn't host me as there was no water in his house! So he advised me to stay at Atse Yohanas. This was good as my tour agent for Danakil Depression, Ethiopia Tour and Travel (ETT) was also there. Wasihun dropped me there and left for another hotel as it was not in his budget!

I went to ETT to meet Abeba to discuss on the whole tour as it was postponed from 2nd to 3rd, which was effecting my Lalibela trip. I had only few days left upon my arrival from Danakil, 1 day to Lalibela, 1day at Lalibela and 1 journey from Lalibela to Addis, which is impossible. But Abeba says, it possible and will get my tickets!

Relieved, I went shopping for my Danakil trip and chilled out in my room. I soon got bored! Somehow, Wasihun read my mind as he came knocking at my door, inviting to visit the city! But Mekele has nothing, so the only place to visit was the Tigrayan People's Liberation Front Monument and Yohannes V Palace (which was just opposite my Hotel).

We went separate ways as I was suppose to meet Antarin and Andrej for dinner, whilst Wasihun with his friend! I think compare to all the other couch surfer, Anatarin was one person I eagerly wanted to meet(because he had interesting profile!), but somehow due to circumstance, I spend the least time with Him, and was hanging out with Andrej
Tigrayan People's Liberation Front Monument














Wukoro
The next day, I was  suppose to go to Gelata with Andrej and his Italian friend and his girlfriend, but instead we went to Wukoro to only visit the rock church. We only saw one church near by the city and it was not that impressive at all. But I just like hanging out with them. It felt like I knew them for months. We had lunch and was back to the city by 2-3 pm. 

I didn't feel like going out in the night, so I didn't meet up with anyone or went out for dinner. I was enjoying WiFi at the hotel.


















On the third day at Mekele, I was meeting Andrej and his friend for lunch. I was so hungry, so I went out for breakfast. Finding ful was so difficult. Only manage to find after going in and out of 4-5 shops.  Eating ful made me full :P, so I walked around the town and did some shopping for Shiro and Berber. My luncheon with Andrej and his friend was only at 1.20 pm (to be precise), so I sat at a juice bar catching up with my journal. 

Andrej came at 1.20pm as promised! We went to meet his friend,  Balaj  and his girlfriend at a Italian restaurant. I love hanging out with them, especially talking with Balaj.  He is so knowledgeable and has all the answers to my queries about Ethiopia! That's why I must hang out with smart people especially lecturers.  Andrej left and I was hanging out with Balaj and his girlfriend till 8 pm. We had dinner and they drooped me back to my hotel. I packed and slept. 

3-6/2/2014

Danakil Depression: The hottest place on earth

Woke up and went to the same restaurant for ful! Abeba requested us to standby at 930am, but as usual we only departed at 10.30am. My driver was Goytom and together with me was the New Zealand couple, Margo and Bruce (the same person I meet at Gondar-Axum journey) and Eric from Bermuda. There was total of 12 person and my guide/driver was Goytom. 
We drove about two hours before we stopped for lunch in the middle of no where, and in the middle of no where in split seconds, popped little kids, waiting for pen or bir. 
Lunch!



















The next stop was in another 2 hours, to a village called Berhale to pick up the police.  From there, we drove to Hamadela. All through out the way, we saw camel and donkeys caravan carrying grass heading towards the same direction as us, on the opposite carrying block and blocks of salt, to Mekele, which is one week walk! No lorries are allowed to transport salt because the local wont have any job then.


Little boy at Berhale















Finally we arrived at Hamadela, a little village in the middle of no where with very minimalistic infrastructure.  For one, there in no room, we sleep in the open air on bamboo bed and then there is no proper bathroom. But they have electricity from 7 pm to 10 pm.
Road to Hamadela















Camel caravan carrying grass
Camel caravan carrying salt blocks





























Million star hotel bed at Hamadela


















Sunset at Hamadela














 After dinner, Goytom and I went for a walk around the village.  In that small village, they had house of shesha!!!!

Today I slept looking at millions and millions of stars! 


Erta Ale
The next day, we were heading to Erta Ale's Volcano. Its not that far but  a very rough drive. Lunch was at the local village. Its funny, how this people wear lungi (sarong)! and carry jile ( a curved knife)! They don't look friendly at all! And without the blessing from the village head, we cant proceed!!!
Kids at the mountain that was so fond of Goytom as he was the Santa Claus that always brings sweet and pen

















We stopped at a army camp at Dodum for tea and dinner before hiking 635 m volcano mountain. It took us approximately 3 hours!  Even the first sight of light and sound exited us!
 








Never in my life I imagined that I will be standing at the rim of the volcano and looking down at the boiling lava! Every 10 minutes, when we decided to leave there will be new explosion and and we ended up just sitting down there admiring it. I think we stayed there more then an hour, before departing to our open air bedroom to sleep . 

Rooms at volcano, mine was without roof!




















Bubbling and erupting lava!

 

 On the third day,we woke up by 630 am to continue seeing the morning lava activities. It took us 2 hours to get down. We had breakfast and  left the place. Today, we had misfortune! Somehow due to distraction, bad judgement or over confidence, our jeep got stuck in the sand. 

Dried lava

















 
In no time, another jeep arrived to rescue. After lots of taking, and various option, it was finally decided that the only way to resolve the problem was to just clear of all the sand from the  wheel, to allow it to spin. It worked and we were out of that place in no time.
We stopped and ate lunch in the middle of nowhere before heading back to Hamadella. This time, it was another camping place. We dropped our bags and went to Lake Asal (salt lake), the lowest point in Africa, 155 below sea level. Its interesting, but was not that impressive!

Road to Hamadela














 





Sunset at Lake Asal

 



























We went back to Hamadela. The air was hot and sticky due to salt. I was desperate for shower. One good part of being close to the guide is that you get privileges that the rest wont get! And being solo female backpacker, solves all problems! Goytom made arrangement to shower at the army camp, just like how they would do it. The shower was so good!!!!

After dinner we went for walk and only slept at 12 am!!!

Dallol
Our final day was to visit Dallol, sulfur depression and salt mountain! It was so pretty impressive and I love it. Pictures will say more then words.

 
 


















Mining salt! Its almost 37degrees!















Salt block




















Salt mountain

Salt Mountain

Salt mountain













































We went back to Hamadela for lunch, before departing to Mekele. It was a long drive and we arrived at bout 5 pm. I stayed at the same place. I went to enquire about my ticket to Lalibela but soon received sms that  there was no tickets and I just have to walk in to find vacant seat. That was not good!

I didn’t feel like eating so just went to get something to drink and ate chips while writing my journal. Meet Goytom later in the night and slept being confused on my journey tomorrow!!!!

7 - 8/2/2014
Journey to Lalibela:  11 hours journey and 4 different vehicle! A Magical town

Listening to Goytom, I went at 6 am and found out that all bus to Woldia or Gashena or any bus to Addis, full or already departed. But some how, I manage to get a minivan to Woldia. This is Ethiopia, anything is possible! 

I slept all the way to a little town, where we changed minivan and continued our journey. Upon arrival in Woldia, I took another minivan to another town called Gashena, and slept all the way. 

The final transport was from Gashena to Lalibela. My oh my, it was a though one! After alot of talking and negotiation and debates (with the help of local English speaking tourist) whether I should pay local habesha price or ferengi price, the verdict was local price. But I had to pay 5 bir to put my bag up.

Journey from Gashena to Lalibela was interesting as I meet friend with two local who spoke English. So I was wide awake and talking. Almost everyone in the bus was listening to my conversation!

My couch surfer, Tazeb came to meet me.  He works for Highlander trekking agency.  His office cum home was at the same ground of seven olives hotel. He pitched me a tent, I showered and we went to eat dinner.  I was so starving!
Lalibela town






















Tazeb & I Highlander Trek Office/house




















We went back to look into pictures and talked till 12 am. It was really cold and I need to get up early, so went to bed....no sleeping bag!


The next day, I woke up early as I was advised by my guide, Chris to go join in for mass.    The mass has not begun when I arrived. Everyone was in their traditional white clothes. They were chanting and singing and it sounded  so beautiful. There was total of 11 medieval monolithic cave churches divided into group of , my personal favorite was St George, the cross structured church!










St George!





















At Ben Abeba View Point
My guide Chris and I at Ben Abeba



After church we visited the weekly local market, which was super awesome. Just like in Vietnam, everything sold from animal to wheat and grain, clothes and etc.  Daniele, my host as well as the founder of Highlander Trekking was arriving from Germany, so Tazeb was busy. I ended up hangging out with Chris till it was time to see my driver, that was going to send me to Addis. Yes, Tazeb manage to find me a car that would bring me to Addis  by 10/2/2014. Anything and everything is possible in Ethiopia!
My driver cum guide Micheal, who works for Red Jackel Tour in Addis, didn't look friendly! He was just staring. I wonder if he even spoke English!!! He charged US60, and since I have no other option I just accepted it. Paid him half of the money and told him I will pay the rest upon arrival.


The rest of the day I just hanged out with Tazeb and Daniel as I didn't know who to go out dinner with, friend from the bus or Chris. So I told him I will meet him for breakfast!

9 - 10/2/2014
I wished it never end!



So many things happened in that 24 hours journey to Addis Abba, but I have no mood to write. May be some day, when I have mood, I will do so.  But I must say, just as promised, Micheal dropped me at the airport sharp 11.30 am, 30 minutes before check in! How cool was that!

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