Mt Rwenzori, the mountain of the Moon

Trekking My Rwenzori : 9th - 16 August 2013
Cost: US1,100 + US35 (entrance fee) + tips
Agency: Rwenzori trekking service (http://www.rwenzoritrekking.com/index.html) 

Taken from http://www.rwenzoritrekking.com

Days 1           : 9 August 2013, Friday

Destination: Sine Hut, 2,596 m
Distance      : 9.5 km
Duration     : 5 hours

I woke up early, packed and went out to have my breakfast. The place was just busy with people

I was introduced to my guide, Bennet.  He was just staring! He spoke very little. He asked me to proceed with my breakfast whilst, he excused himself to prepare for the trek, basically gathering porters and packing food. There were a total of 10 porters, and I can only remember 2, Moses and John.
 

After all the hustle and bustle, we began our trek at about 1030am from Trekker’s Hostel, 1,450 meters above sea level.  My destination today was to Sine Hut, 2,596 meters above sea level, 9.5 km and approximately 5 hours hike.  The first stop was to the Uganda Wildlife Authority situated 2.2 km from the hostel, to register, pay the entrance fees and  pick up a ranger(not sure why).  While waiting for the receipt, I was browsing through the register book and to my surprise there were no names from Malaysia, or Singapore. So, technical I am the first, which means more pressure to reach the summit! Grr!!!

The entry point to Rwenzori

The office!

The first part was not that difficult, as it was flat ground all the way. Yipie! We stopped around 1230 noon for quick lunch before continuing the journey.  

The easy path to the mountain...Flat ground!!!

Stop for lunch

The second part of the journey was just pure torture! The moment we crossed the river, it was just up and up  and up in the deep forest all the way to Sine Hut. Oh man, I was so tired and the first glimpse of the hut brought so much joy! This was the first day!I am not fit at all!! What was I thinking!

Sine hut was huge, and has 10 double-decked bed. I was all alone in the hut, while Bennet and the porters slept on the tent.  I quickly changed sat on the verandah, listening to the sound of Enock’s Fall, while enjoying my hot chocolate.

At about 6, diner was served. It was 3 course dinner but I was already full with the soup. The rest of the night I was just talking to Bennet. Went to bed by 9 but was unable to sleep as I wanted to pee all night long! Sigh!

Resting at the Sine hut after my first day hike...

Day 2            : 10 August 2013, Saturday .
Destination: Mutinda Camp, 3,925 m
Distance      : 8 km
Duration     : 5 -6 hours

I woke up early, so I can run to the bathroom to pee!  I quickly changed my clothe, packed and had breakfast.

Today’s hike was going to be a long, steep walk in bamboo forest. I don't know why, but I hated this part of the climb. It was dark and stuffy and I just felt the bamboos on the left and right side of the trek was about to swallow me.  I think am claustrophobic in the jungle. I just wanted air to breathe. I was walking fast so that I can come to the end of the trek to have fresh air. 2 hours later, we did walked out of the bamboo zone and arrived at Kalama Camp, 3,147 meters above sea level. For those who are fit, this would have been the stopping point for the 1st day. We stopped for little while to rest and switch to my rubber boots, as from this point onwards, its just mud, mud mud all the way. 

Campy 2, Kalalama: for those who are fit to reach in a day 

View from Kalama

We stopped again for lunch, at about 1130 am near a mossy waterfall. It was the most scenic waterfall that I have seen. The view from that point onwards was breathtaking.  The fresh air, the green grass and yellow flower by the stream, the sound of the chirping birds and the cold breeze on my  cheek, was simply amazing. The only missing thing was a little fairy!

Beautiful waterfall

Stopping for lunch: Bennet, renjer and John

Giant Lobellias

Everlasting flower

And then, jeng, jeng, jeng misery came along. Mud, mud and more mud! I was practically hanging on to Bennet when we were crossing the bogs, river, bridge and almost everything! 

Walking on planks and bogs!!!

More planks

Finally at about 3 pm, we reached Mutinda Camp, 3,925 meters above the sea level. This is the only place we camp instead of hut as its located under the cave. 

I quickly changed and sat outside to read and write my journal In just an hour I froze, and hide under my sleeping bag till Bennet came to rescue. I sat by the fire while Bennet cooked. Dinner was delicious but as usual I didn't have appetite to eat. Bennet asked me to sit by the fire, while he prepared my dinner. But I just simply didn't have appetite to eat.  Bennet and I talked till the fire went dead.

Camp 3: Mutinda

Day 3              : 11 August 2013, Sunday

Destination : Bugata Camp, 4,062 m
Distance       : 4.9 km
Duration      : 5 -6 hours

Today I was really tired. Lots of ups and down, to make matter worst, I always have my period while climbing! We were walking and walking and walking and 2/3 of the walk was purely on mud. Too much thinking. Bennet was super fast, jumping from on tussocks grass to another!  I managed to keep up with him, but at times slipping and stepping into the deep mud and getting dirty. At one point I fell on the mud! I hate mud and at this point, I hate squeeky sound from the boots. Eewww!!!

Bennet, walking in the mist and out from the mud he will clean his shoes!

 We arrived at about 230 pm, to the 4th Camp, Bugata, 4,062 meters  above sea level, situated on huge rock. Bugata camp is the only camp that apparently has a helipad as equipped with solar. The view is magnificent, above is Wiseman peak  and below is beautiful Lake Kapello.

I quickly changed my clothes and sat by the fire just talking and talking and talking to almost everyone and almost everything. Ate my dinner and slept. I am not sure, compare to all, today was one day I slept well. 

Lake Kapella

Campy 4, Bugata

My hut

Mosses and John, the friendly Porters

Toilet

Friendly porters which I cant remember their names

Day 4            : 12 August 2013, Monday 

Destination: Butawa Camp, 3,974 m
Distance      : 6.2 km
Duration     : 7 hours 

Today's hike was suppose to be 6.2 km, almost 7 hours walk and was suppose to be difficult. It was, like a never ending walk.  The ranger that followed, decided to turn back as he could not bare the cold any longer, with minimalistic clothes he had. Along with him, another 4-5 porters went down. 

Took my breakfast and started to walk. We first passed Banwanjara Pass at 4,450 meters and we walked down, down, down on mud, with no trail and pouring rain.  The place was dark and surrounded by trees. I felt "claustrophobic" again!  I hate climbing down,  so I was really slow, taking one step at the time. The boys was laughing at me. 

Beautiful reflection in the lake

The point where the trek when down, down down!!!

 

The 3 lake, its so beautiful and according to Bennet the water will to Congo

Finally after endless walk, the trail was a flat and up again.  I was practically dragging my feet till I saw the first glimpse of the hut, and I almost collapsed. In my mind I was already having fear of my descend!  Butawa Camp is 3,974  meters above sea level and I would be staying here upon decending from the peak, day after tomorrow. 

I quickly changed and went to the dining area to rest. Today I had no appetite to eat. I just wanted to lie down and sleep. I meet a couple that just finished their hike and was exchaging stories about climbing the peak. I was scared. I have so much doubt about everything. People excpectation is so high for me to reach the peak, climbing don't seems fun anymore!  Sigh! The only comfort I had was sitting by the fire with Bennet.


Day 5             : 13 August 2013, Tuesday 
Destination: Magherita Camp, 4485 m  

Distance      : 4.2 km
Duration     : 4-5 hours

Today's hike was suppose to be  short one and not so difficult, as we need time to rest before early morning peak attempt. Its almost 4.2 km to Magherita Camp. Since we are down at 3,974 meter , which mean more up and up and up. The first part of the trek was wonderful, lots of rock climbing till we reached Scot Elliot and then it was just up and up and up on soft muddy ground till Magherita Camp, at 4,485 meter above sea level.
 
My hut and the kitchen was far, so I quickly changed and went to the kitchen and yacked, yacked, yacked till it was late night and time to sleep.  Tomorrow was a big day as I have to be up at 2 am to start the climb. I am scared.

Scott Elliot, the point where some will return down.

Me, tired sitting in front of the Magherita hut

Day 6            : 14 August 2013, Wednesday

Destination: Magherita Peak (5,109 m)-Butawa Camp (3974 m)
Distance      :DONT KNOW!
Duration     : 16 hours

It is the day! I woke up at 1.45 am so that I can have my breakfast and start to climb by 2.30 am. I had layers of clothes, 2 down and 4 on top.  I felt like astronaut or fat penguin. It was so tight and warm and uncomfortable. Bennet and I started our climb as early as 3 am inorder to reach the summit by 9am, because I am slow and I have no expertise walking on glaciers.

By the time I reached Elena hut, I stopped. I decided there and then that I am going to strip off all my clothes, leaving only my long john and my pink top! And it was a wise decision, as from then onwards, I walked fast. Bennet probably though I am crazy walking on the snow with mere long john, as I may freeze to death! 

Everything was fine till my head light died. Sigh! So we depended on Bennett's hand phone. Dont ask me how! We just walked and walked and climbed the rope and rock in the dark till we reached the first glacier.

From this point onwards, it would requires me to walk on cramp-ons and axes. And from this point onwards, I got lots of scolding from Bennet. Always telling me what to do and what not to do, in ANGRY tone. I hate people telling me what to do but this was exceptional! 

Despite being short, Bennet was so strong and some part of the snowy mountain,  he was just pulling me up with the rope as I was lazy and tired. Now i am in I hate snow zone! If its not for my dear Bennett, I probably wouldn't have reached the last part of the hike and neither would I have beautiful pictures. He was like superman, so strong! 

 

Elena Hut : The last hut before peak

Bennet going up with the rope tied to me.

Stopped at the second glacier to change shoes.

I never thought I would climb mountain with my long john!!!

Finally after the second glacier, I was back to normal. It was clear sunny day and from this point onwards, it was just climbing rock and I loved it. By the time I was at the peak,  I was so happy and speechless.  It was superb, and it was only me and Bennet on top of the mountain. I was so happy I had time to fool around taking funny pictures. We sat there almost an hour before heading down.

Last part of the mountain

Me at the peak!

At the peak of Rwenzori with my long john and my  rain deer hat!

My dear guide, supper Bennet!

Fooling around trying to arrange stones to put timer for our self portrait

I love me and I love Bennet for bring me up to the peak!

 

My foot step on the snow!

Going down was more difficult then going up as when you run on the snow, you get tired. And some part of the rock is so slippery, we had to use rope and my axe and my scramp-ons. I was practically hanging on to Bennet or falling on top of him. Its ice cold snow, and I am in my long john! Instead of scolding me, we were just laughing all the way down till we reached Magherita Camp.

I quickly changed, packed and at about 1 or 2, started to descend to Butawa camp. Oh dear, it was the most longest, torturous walk it that whole trek. It was crazy Nuang (mountain near my home) all over again.  I was so tired and angry, I spoke not a single word till I reached the camp. Only walk and walk and walk and may be curse here and there till I finally reached Butawa camp collapsed. The total time of walk, 16 hours!

I had no appetite, my body was cold and aching. The only comfort was, fire and talking to Bennet.

Day 7            : 15 August 2013, Thursday 

Destination: Mutinda Camp, 3925 m 

Distance      :DONT KNOW!
Duration     :7 hours

Woke up as usual. I felt better in the morning. Changed and went for breakfast. Bennet always bugging me on what to have for breakfasts.  

Today I was walking freely. My sweet Bennet not only carried my bag but also gave him my phone and camera to take pictures. I was to tired and lazy.  The trek was going up and down till we reached camp 4 for break and continued walking.  By now, I was sunburned, my lips was cracking, nose was sore and my feet hurt! The journey seems endless. I was looking forward to the quite cave tent, but unfortunately the place was packed with trekkers and porters. I was down graded to porters tent. The whole place was noisy.

This is a killer down, down down!

Taking a moment after the hike up

Oh dear squeaky mud!!!!

looking pissed..tired of walking

Day 8            : 16 August 2013, Friday  

Destination: Trekers Hostel, 1,450 m

Distance      :DONT KNOW!
Duration     : 8 hours

By today my legs was sore due to wet rubber boots. I was in pain. Thinking about decent in the mud and bambboo stretch was weakening me. But to my surprise,  we took a different path, which was so green and mossy and beautiful. I had to be so careful with my steps and as it was so soft, like velvet cloth. The giant heather trees was also covered with green moss and old man beards (Usnea lichen).  Trek ended at Kalama camp. Then we by passed the sickening bamboo stretch again before getting down to FLAT GROUND! 
I was practically running. Everyone was happy and proud of me. They keep on saying I am strong and brave!
But I got tired, more like my feet got realy sore. So from that point onwards to the hostel, I was dragging my feet it. the moment I reached the hostel, I threw away my boots, walked barefoot smiling.

I guess to date, apart from ABC, this is one of the best and the most difficult mountain I have climbed. My achievement, I owe it to Bennet. On determination, I owe it to my minister for having so much hope. Whats' next?