Sunday, 12 December 2010
Arrived at Delhi Airport around 2 pm and went straight to White Klove in Pahar Ganj.
My taxi driver was Raj, aged 25, undergraduate and part time taxi driver, who claims to own more then a taxi and he had to drive today as no one around (Indian guys just love to brag about them self). He spoke well and gave me his number if I needed any help during my stay in Delhi.
Looking at the interior of White Klove, I expected the place to be a little decent compared to hotels at Karol Bagh. But only when the taxi turned to the corer of Main Bazaar did I realized that it’s a slum area and was wondering how was I to survive for next 3 days. Nevertheless, the hotel was indeed nice. Not wanting any hassle, I just booked the 3 day tour with the hotel, which a also include day city tour.
The journey to Delhi began with mighty Red Fort, which took about an hour or so to view it. The beauty of the building lies on the colour red. Couple of minutes away form Red Fort is Meena Bazaar and Chandini Chowk, where the famous Jama Masjid located. It was weekend and the place was crowded. So my driver instructed me to take trishaw. Even though it cost me additional RP100, it was worth it.
Red Fort
Jama Masjid has beautiful structure, however you cant view its beauty unless you get inside. Which comes down to the fact that people are charging RP250 illegally. Furthermore, one aren’t allow to walk further then just couple of feet from the main entrance because, (1) it was prayers time and (2) not a Muslim. So why charged RP250? I am confused!
Anyway, we got out from there and went to Jain, Shiva as well as Sikh temple, all different and all beautiful in its own way.
Jama Masjid
The trishaw driver dropped me back at Red Fort. My journey continued to India Gate which was also crowded with people and vendors. The best part of hagging around India Gate is not for the monument alone but to get the taste of the famous pani puri or bel puri with masala tea. It was simply delicious and one the best moment in India.
India Gate
The journey ended at Birla Temple, which was so beautiful and well organized. But what I like most was the fact that they didn’t ask single penny to look after the belongings. There is still hope for India.
Day 2
Monday, 13 December 2010
My seminar today is at Le Meridian, 10 minutes away from Pahar Ganj. The security was so tight that we had to do first screening at the car and second at the entrance of the door. The seminar was scheduled at 9 but only started at 10 and attended by all the oldies that was either promoting their product or getting connections. Nevertheless it was interesting. Apart from myself, there was another two foreigner and only 2 other ladies. The seminar ended at about 6 and, I headed back to White Klove. The taxi man, here are so persistence that he got me book him for tomorrow.
Not knowing what to do, I decided to venture out Pahar Ganj all by myself, with thousand of eyes staring really hard and wondering why is this girl all alone. And at times, they try to have conversation. Its one crazy, messed up, crowded, noisy dirty area, yet I like everything about it. Its so cool and challenging. Every turn has an alley; and every alley has something to see or leads to some where. One corner is the Main Bazaar, another the Metro and another the railway station. The walk was endless and thrilling. Every turn, various items are sold, from clothes to jewels, to house hold product, fabric, spice and food and so on. So what does the shopaholic like me does? Shop till I got lost.
As I was finding my way back I meet, Ranjan, aged 32 (may be because I said I was 31), owns budget hotel, not married (yah right, he had pink food bag and soft toy in his car), claim to be pious and also vegetarian (as I said I was one) and loved to meet and help foreigner especially Malaysian (as he's been here before). I was trying my best to avoid him but I was lost and he was willing to show me the way. To cut the long story short, and save the hassle of explaining how persistence Indian man can be, by the time I reached the hotel, I agreed to go for drink at Connought Place, which was just walking distance (but we ended up driving there).
From the moment we meet, it was non stop bragging about himself. He was trying really hard to impress me and it was too obvious. By the time we finished our dinner (which he paid for as I am his guest), took ride around town, and too much talking, I knew I had to simply get back to my hotel. So he dropped me back and I told him that will catch up for tea tomorrow. Why? Because I was not yet an expert to read the signs and always bad at lies.
Day 3
Tuesday, 14 December 2010
My day started by visiting Qutub Minar which was at the other end of the city and then to Lotus Temple. I loved Qutub Minar. Though my initial plan was to continue to Purana Quila and Humayum Tomb, I was send to Delhi Haat by my taxi river. Its Government shop, yet I shopped and I am blaming on the tea.
Qutub Minar
Lotus Temple
Sort of went to conference and later in the evening meet Ranjan for tea, and shopping at local market near Lajpat Nagar. Which was glad to go as things was lot better then Pahar Ganj. Yeah I know I am bad.
By the time the day ends, too much talking and arguing, he realized it wasn’t going on his track and said, that I wasn’t as innocent as I looked when he first meet. So to cut the story short, I was back at the hotel and we waived good by and agreed to meet on Saturday if either of us around.
Day 4
Wednesday 14 December 2010
My driver, Munna Bai was little man who spoke very little English and eat paan a lot. Our destination was Jaipur, 5 ½ hours away. I loved my journey - the camels, man in turbans, ladies in colourful Saree and yellow mustard flowers was superb. Yet, the best part of it was meeting Diana, from Switzerland, just arrived from airport, spoke little English and was ripped of by the driver and ended up in my car.
We arrived around 3 pm and wanted to do shopping. But Diana had no place to stay and my room was beyond her budget and too far from the city, which was 10 km. So I offered drop her at the hotel after shopping and she agreed as she wanted to shop too.
Instead of local market, we ended up in Government shop, which I was angry at first, but when the tea went down the throat and I was calm, I did serious shopping (actually sew). My clothes would be sewed, dye and delivered in one day.
Later, we found a hotel for Diana and agreed to meet tomorrow for city tour. I headed back to my hotel ate and slept.
Mustard flowers
Day 5
Thursday, 16 December 2010
We started our trip at about 8, stopping by Albert Hall for pictures, picked up Diana and headed to Hawa Mahal, which was indeed beautiful. From there, we headed to Jal Mahal, also known as Water Palace, where we picked up our guide. Ronit, aged 26, dress to impress, had good command of English (as he claimed to be doing MBA at the moment), not into relationship but only friends which he said it like mantra over and over and over till, finally at one point I actually got what he was trying to tell. Oh yeah, he also had some sad story. But what I like about him was that he made me cheat on my entrance ticket at all 3 places.
Albert Hall
Hawa Mahal
Jal Mahal (Water Palace)
Amber Fort
Jaigarh Fort
Pink City Palace
He was nice all through out the journey and at times being too open minded, but I, who was friendly at first got really mad. First the incident with the Government shop, then with the closing of Jantar Mantar, no local bazaar and above all expensive restaurants. To cut the story short, we departed not as friend but two annoyed people. I realized, at that point, if you don’t follow their lead, they will ditch you. But they are always polite to ask what do you think? So I said we are friends but I still want to shop at local bazaar.
Instead I went back to Satguru to collect my clothes, which also got me mad as I asked him to do one and he did another. What a day.
Luckily Muna Bai took me to local market at Bappu Bazaar or I would have given him silent treatment the next day. The local market was superb. It’s cheaper, better quality, nicer and worth the money. So what does shopaholic does, shop like crazy.
Then due to stupidly of Muna Bai and myself, I waited in cold for almost an hour. Luckily, there was two man, who spoke little English, worked at he bank where I was waiting, took pity of me and called Munna Bai. Angels are always out there by my side. Went back, packed and slept smiling.
Day 6,
Friday, 17 December 2010.
We departed to Agra about 8 am stopping first at Fatehpur Sikri. I slept all through out journey. Not sure why, but this time Muna Bai mentioned that there will be guide fee that I should not pay more then RP200. So I negotiated till RP300 including tuk tuk and no entrance fee as I declared my self as local, Tamil Nadu, Chenai and if anyone would have further it would have been T-Nagar.
My guide, was Nazeem and he was no nonsense like others as their intention was MONEY. So instead of entrance fees, I paid additional RP500 to make 3 wishes, and for that need a cloth, flower and 3 pieces of strings. For the first time in my life, I had doubt on what I want to wish for, and that pisst me off. Putting that aside, the building was superb. But unfortunately I only saw one portion of it. Either its closed or he wasn't taking me as he presumed its not worth looking at or because I didn't pay the entrance fees. An hour later I was back at my car and was on my way to Agra.
Fatehpur Sikri
The Taj was closed on Friday, so the only option left was to to go Red Fort. Unlike other guide, he made me pay for foreigner price of RP250, as he didn’t want to cheat and the money used to pay for orphanage. The place was amazing and after an hour of looking around we sat, enjoyed the view and started to talk. He asked me what I want do and I told him shopping of course but only at local place as I am fed up with Government rated shop, buying miniature Taj as well as going backwater boat ride at Taj. He said he will check it out first as it was Muaram and the Muslim gather there for some ceremony.
He checked and the back water boat ride was a no as the traffic was bad and we ended up at Marble factory and jewel shop. I refused tea at both places and was rude enough to decline to buy at both places. From there not knowing what to do, we ended up shopping complexes across the hotel. My initial thought was that I will be loitering alone, but he stayed on and we ended up watching movie together which took me by surprise.
The movie was scheduled at 6.45 pm, and we had almost 3 hours to kill. Since I didn't want to get back to hotel, we talked, eat, drank chai on the street and talk more. Every hour his tone was different, his thought were different and act was different. He portrayed of himself as one bloody innocent naive guy and occasionally self praise and also bragged that he buys expensive stuffs. A hour later, he confessed that I am very nice person and if I was only 26, he would have asked me for marriage. That was funny and I thought it was a joke of the town.
Things were so fine till it was second part of the movie where he started to talk strange stuff. It was damn funny and I can laughed at it now. He said, ‘Ma’am, I am not sure why but I am attracted to you. See ma’am my hand are cold and shaking”.
It took me by suprise as he was so innocent moment ago and being so direct after that. I didn't know what to say but laugh and said, ‘You were just fine a moment ago but what happen. Why talking nonsense’.
He replied, “Its feeling ma’ama it just happen.” Half way through, he get anxious, and say "Oh no, you gonna tell my agency and gonna loose my job, I am sorry and and I didn't mean too". Then moment later back to square one. It went on till the end of movie, which I was no longer watching. In my mind there was only one thing, what did I get my self into this time!
He kept on asking me what to do repeatedly and I said I have got nothing to say and it’s just stupid. So the movie ended and he walked me back to my hotel. He had to as his bike was there. Luckily we decided up front on no dinner, or I cant imagine how the conversation would have lead to. So we sat at the lobby and talked, a little while as it was too awkward because the guys at the hotel was constantly walking up and down to clean up the place.
He said he has no heart to leave and not sure how he going to face it tomorrow and day after and was He was so agitated and putting on puppy sad faces. His acting was so real that could make any lady vulnerable instantly. What his real intention was clueless, as I was not following his path but what I like about this Indians is that they always ask, "what I shall do Ma’am". I only can tolerate a little nonsense, but this was bizarre, so I told him to go home and meet tomorrow to see the Taj. With his heavy heart, waived good bye and told that he will survive and never forget the day or myself.
Till now, I am shocked and speechless with that innocent looking guy, with all the man in India and their mentality.
It took me by suprise as he was so innocent moment ago and being so direct after that. I didn't know what to say but laugh and said, ‘You were just fine a moment ago but what happen. Why talking nonsense’.
He replied, “Its feeling ma’ama it just happen.” Half way through, he get anxious, and say "Oh no, you gonna tell my agency and gonna loose my job, I am sorry and and I didn't mean too". Then moment later back to square one. It went on till the end of movie, which I was no longer watching. In my mind there was only one thing, what did I get my self into this time!
He kept on asking me what to do repeatedly and I said I have got nothing to say and it’s just stupid. So the movie ended and he walked me back to my hotel. He had to as his bike was there. Luckily we decided up front on no dinner, or I cant imagine how the conversation would have lead to. So we sat at the lobby and talked, a little while as it was too awkward because the guys at the hotel was constantly walking up and down to clean up the place.
He said he has no heart to leave and not sure how he going to face it tomorrow and day after and was He was so agitated and putting on puppy sad faces. His acting was so real that could make any lady vulnerable instantly. What his real intention was clueless, as I was not following his path but what I like about this Indians is that they always ask, "what I shall do Ma’am". I only can tolerate a little nonsense, but this was bizarre, so I told him to go home and meet tomorrow to see the Taj. With his heavy heart, waived good bye and told that he will survive and never forget the day or myself.
Till now, I am shocked and speechless with that innocent looking guy, with all the man in India and their mentality.
Day 7
Saturday, 18 December 2010
Deepak behaved like it was our first meeting and nothing happened. He was so cool, but I on the other hand was feeling awkward (as I still couldn't digest what went on last night). Since he said nothing, I didn't too. I paid RP750, which was not going to the poor as I was given back used ticked (and when asked Deepak said, "I know you are right ma'am").
Since we were maintaining our friendship, there was less talking and joking and it turn our to be the quickest tour ever and most boring. So, despite looking at the most beautiful building in the world, I had empty feeling. May be its because of Deepak, or the building was just blunt or I just hate the history behind the Taj.
Anyway, by 8 something we were done with Taj and he took me straight to hotel, waived good by and left. So I packed my bag and left to Delhi.
Deepak and I at Taj
You see, to conclude my encounter with Indian man, it feels like they have been groomed by someone, same person perhaps. They act the same, think the same, talk the same and behave the same. Its always money, help, friendship or beyond that. When they don’t get what they want, it’s a sharp good bye. I know I shouldn't conclude Indian man's mentality or behavior by comparing to handful of man I meet along the way in short period of time. But for a country full of customs, traditions and believes, that was unacceptable, especially when one is behaving such to foreign people especially to Indian origin. Its pure disappointment.
Day 8
Sunday, 19 December 2010.
I was all packed and was left if only one thing buying mitai, which luckily could get just not far from hotel Waived good by to all and left with mix feeling, an urge to stay yet same urge to leave.
I always believe that people will change when to get to India, for better or worst. I went to there to find answers, but found none. Instead I came back with disturbed mind. A doubt! A doubt about my self, what I really want and what I stand for.
No, that not what I was thinking. It has got nothing to do with those boys and their behavior towards myself. It happened at Fatehpur Sikri, where I was given 3 pieces of strings for wishes and I hesitated. I actually had doubt what to wish for, especially the first and the most important one. That hesitation is killing me.
To worsen everything, as I was watching Eat Pray Love, half way through the movie I was in tears, as I felt lost without answers. Did I loose my path? Did I loose my faith? Only time could tell and I think I need another journey to India to find out.
No, that not what I was thinking. It has got nothing to do with those boys and their behavior towards myself. It happened at Fatehpur Sikri, where I was given 3 pieces of strings for wishes and I hesitated. I actually had doubt what to wish for, especially the first and the most important one. That hesitation is killing me.
To worsen everything, as I was watching Eat Pray Love, half way through the movie I was in tears, as I felt lost without answers. Did I loose my path? Did I loose my faith? Only time could tell and I think I need another journey to India to find out.
Notes:
Paan; betel leave
Bel Puri : puff rice dish with potato and tangy tamarind sauce
Pani Puri : hollow puri, fried crisp and filled with a mixture of water, tamarind, chili, chaat masala, potato, onion and chickpeas.
mitai: local sweets
bai: brother
masala tea: spiced tea
chai: tea
