Sarawak, Day 4: "Surviving Bako: Musli + Lemon Tea + Kabir!"

Wenesday, 2 August 2006 :
The sleep was horrible. Not that the room was uncomfortable, but I was feeling rather cold. The noises of the animal woke me up very early. We need start early to avoid sunlight. So we quickly bathed, changed and made our own breakfast consisting of cereal drink (nestum) and a musli bar. We packed our little bag with 3 musli, 2 sachet of lemon tea, 2 mineral bottle (one big and one small), towel and camera.

After discussing for a long time, upon advise from a fellow traveller, staying next door, we decided to do the Lintang Trail. It was suppose to be 4-5 hour trek, which connects the main 16 trails. According to him, it was better to start from the left side of the trail to reduce climbing hilltop. After yesterdays experience with Paku trail, we totally agreed.

BAKO Trail :

Chronicles of monkey attack!

The camping ground..home of the monkeys

Monkey finding way to attack the camp

Monkey attacked the camp

Monkey ran away after shoved aaway by camper!

The trails in Bako are well marked and lead to jungle via wooden plank. The first junction was Tanjung Sapi and since we have already trekked it yesterday, we proceeded to the next trail called Delima. The first part of Lintang trail was rather easy as it had lots of flat ground. So we walked as fast as we could till we reached the junction of Teluk Delima, which was leading towards the mangroves.

End of Teluk Delima, Silver Tail Monkey with beard greeted us...

There was no proper walk or signage. At one point we were on muddy ground surrounded by silver tail monkey with beard. It looked like a dead end so we headed back to the Lintang trail. From that junction up till Bukit Thambi, the Lintang trail was heading upward toward the hill top view and then down toward the endless walk in jungle -sometimes shaded with huge trees, moss and kerangas and sometime just huge open naked ground with direct sunlight on our head. After a long hours of walking, one musli bar gone, 1 sachet of lemon tea gone, 1 small mineral bottle empty, we finally arrived at the junction of Pandan Besar/Tajor waterfall trail. We stopped for a while to catch our breath and moist our throat.

First pat of Lintang Trail ...shaded with trees

Second part of lintang Trail, absolute no trees...so hot

Juction at Bukit Thambi...3/4 of Lintang Trail

Pitcher Plant at Lintang Trail

Upclose..pitcher plant..this just one type!

Along came a guy smiling towards us with no shirt on, wearing long pant, a shawl wrapped on his body, wearing only Japanese slippers and holding nothing but a plastic bag with mineral bottle and packed food. That was Kabir Gaurav, 33 years old, good-looking vegetarian light traveller, originated from India but works in New Zeeland, has an amazing sense of humour and was looking for a girl to settle down. Sigh! He was so perfect for my dear friend, Jesp who I jokingly promised to find a guy for her 27th Birthday, which was just around the corner. Ironic huh! Moreover, Akka thought the same thing, so we ended up match making him with her, without her presence. Since, she was my friend I ended talking more then Akka.

He insisted upon going to Tajor waterfall while we wanted to go Pandan Besar to see the sea shack that looks like cobra’s head. Since he was travelling alone, he decided to follow us to Pandan Besar, which was just 30 minutes away from the junction. The trail ended at hilltop, and we had most remarkable view of the cobra sea shack.

End of Pandan Besar Trail - the beutiful sea shack from hill top

Look like cobra head huh?

Thinking that our journey finally came to an end, I quickly jumped into the seawater with Kabir and the other tourist while Akka stayed behind ate so call lunch. It was getting late and since we have approximately walked for more then 5 hours, had only quarter water of mineral bottle and one musli bar, we wanted to walk back to headquarters. But some how upon strong persuasion from Kabir, we ended up heading towards Tajor waterfall, the journey I can never forget after Nuang’s experience!

It was almost two-hour walk into the deep jungle, with bad signage, no food and above all with a total stranger. Fortunately or unfortunately the trail was heading downwards so we weren’t so tired at first though the weather was tremendously hot. A while later, Kabir left us. We walked and walked till finally heard the sound of waterfall and saw Kabir enjoying his meal looking at what I would call a pathetic waterfall with stained water. We were awfully annoyed, angry and thirsty, we just sat down on the rock. Even though we had no more water left, yet were so reluctant to drink the stained water.

Assuming it was the end of Tajol trail, we headed back to Lintang trail feeling really disappointed. Going back, the trail was heading upwards, which mean more climbing. It was a hot day and the hill was so steep, we had no food, no water and on top of it my body was so tired from bathing in seawater, I was having so much doubt if I can make back to Teluk Assam without being aided. Feeling so tired and annoyed, we hardly spoke to each other and walked in silent taking one step at a time. There is a saying, “its not the destination, but the journey that matters”. Wrong! Sometimes, the destination does matter. After getting lost several times, walking up and down the hill looking for signage, we finally made it to the Pandan Besar/Tajor junction where we first meet Kabir.

Unfortunately, that was not the end of the Lintang trail but only end of the Tajor trail. We still have a long way back to headquarters. Kabir assured us that it was only 30 minutes walk back to the park. So we continued to walk and walk and walk under the sun, in silent, deliberately dragging our leg. We were totally worn out and looking more and more like zombies, burnt zombies actually.

Finally after walking for sometimes, Kabir left us. A few minutes later, he shouted something and we knew that it was the end of the trail. We have finally arrived. However, we still have another 10-15 minutes tortuous walk thorough the wooden plank to reach the Teluk Assam. After last few steps, at about 5 something we reached the headquarters looking so tired, so black. I was so thirty, I drank almost two can of gassy drink and ate half a chips and ended up vomiting. A little advise; on a hot day, chips and gas drink is definitely a NO..NO!

We rested for a while and then went back to our hostel for a cold shower. After being in hunger for the whole day we eagerly waited for our dinner. However, the dinner was real disappointment as they only serve horrible fried mee, fried rice, chicken curry, fish curry, vegetables (I assumed it was just boiled and sprinkle with salt), nuggets and sausages. No ordering beyond what in the menu (probably the cook didn’t know how to cook). The fried rice/mee and vegetables was vegetarian as there was a vegetarian group staying at the park. If not I probably eat rice with ketchup!

We were sipping our good cup of tea when Kabir approached us with Stephanie and her huge camera. It seems that Stephanie also did the Tajor trail, but unlike us she managed to bathe in the waterfall as she encountered the whole waterfall, and not just the leg of the waterfall as we did. Sigh! The view of the waterfall was so beautiful, Kabir felt guilty for not finding the real waterfall despite reaching there early. Feeling annoyed, tired and sleepy, we decided to head back to our room for a good rest.

Sarawak-Day 3-"Discovering Bako"

Tuesday, 1 August 2006:

Woke got up early to pack our bag for 3 days (2 days in Bako, 1 day in Santubong). The rest of the stuffs will be left behind at the hostel. We told the caretaker that the bags would be collected on Friday, before we leave to Miri. They were nice and agreed to look after it with no charges.

It was too early for breakfast, so we ended up taking a walk around Kuching town visiting Roman Catholic Church, museums and etc. After walking for two hours, we settle down for Indian breakfast at Bollywood café in Jalan Carpenter, just behind our hostel. It was a little cosy shop owned by a Punjabi lady, which later on I found to be my friend’s colleague’s in-law. She was such a nice lady. We told her that we were vegetarians and upon hearing that she quickly offered us aloo prata (bread potato) that she was preparing for the temple. A simple roti with simple dhal and homemade pickles was the most delicious breakfast I ate in Sarawak. Feeling so stuffed and happy, we walked to the main bus stop to find Petra Jaya bus no 6 that will take us to Kampung Bako. It took about 45 minutes to reach the village. Upon arriving at the jetty, we charted a boat for about RM20 each and continued another 30-minute boat ride to the Park.

Walking around Sarawak town : (1) Akka coming out from secret dungeon at the Sarawak garden, (2) Old piramid look a like Roman Catholic Church (3) Old building used as Sarawak Craft

The boat stopped at the mangrove in Teluk Assam. From there, a wooden plank guided us straight to the headquarters. The guide was amazingly friendly. He informed us that the check in/ check out time was only at 11.00 o’clock. Since we were there early, he handed us the Bako trail map and advised us to go for a walk. Hence, we quickly unpacked our little bag with muslis, water and towel and headed to the nearest trail.

ME and Akka on a boat ride to Bako

Bako has about 16 well marked jungle trail that goes about 30 km into different part of the forest from the mangrove to hill top, beach, water fall and so on. Among them are the Lintang, Tanjung Sapi, Ulu Assam, Tanjung Rhu, Paku, Delima, Serait, Tajor, Bukit Gondol, Limau, Keruing, Jelutong, Sibur, Serait, Pandan Besar, Pandan Kechil, and others. Some takes about 30 to 45 minutes walk/climb, others takes up to 8-9 hours walk/climb and would require a boat to return. The nearest to Teluk Assam was the Paku trail which was suppose to be the best place to spot the proboscis money (tangerine coloured monkey with huge horn shaped nose). Though the trail was only about 45 minutes, it was a torturous climbs up wards the hill but ends at a beautiful white sandy beach. Unfortunately, we didn’t bring our swimming gear, so we returned to the headquarters to check in into our hostel.

Paku Trail: Stairs, Jungle Trek and Hills

The park provides various type of hostel depending on the price. Ours was very simple wooden house with 3 rooms, each furnished with 4 beds, fan, common bathroom and a kitchen with fridge and electric kettle. For RM18, a night, that was indeed luxury. We share the room with two other people, Stephanie and her friend. Not wanting to sleep, we headed to the beach to enjoy the scenic view of Teluk Assam. We bought junk food from the cafeteria and rested at the nearest hut. After one packet of peanuts, long hours of looking at the squirrel and beach, we decided to go for walk, trekking a smaller trail before sunset. See beyond the limit in short period of time, was our motto!

Thus, we quickly headed back to our hostel, changed, packed our little bag and headed to the left part of the Lintang trail to Tanjung Sapi. It was a short but very steep climb. Similar to Paku trail, we climbed up and up and up to hilltop for about 45 minutes to get the amazing sight of Telok Assam, the South China Sea and Santubong beach. Unfortunately, it was getting late and we need to get down before sunset. Moreover, I wanted to swim. So we quickly walked down….more like run down as we reached the beach in no time. Too early for sunset, we ended up walking along the beach. I headed to the water to swim, but the water was dirty and my body was really itchy, so I ended up sleeping on the huge rock till Akka woke me up to go for dinner.

Our Hostel

Camouflages: Spot the monitor lizard, green lizard or squirrel?










Tanjung Sapi and Teluk Assam

(2)Akka at Tajung Sapi hill top , (3)ME hangging on to a big stone at the Teluk Assam beach..this is where i did my sun bathing (1)Sunset at Teluk Assam beach

We didn’t want to waste money on food so decided to eat Maggie, but somehow changed our mind to eat at the cafeteria. Besides, the food there is really cheap. So we settled for a simple meal of fried rice/mee and a good cup of coffee/tea. The tea was presented so beautifully, everyone who got the glimpse of the cup, wanted to taste it. We headed back to our hostel early to pack for tomorrow’s long hike.

Sarawak, Day 5-6: "Miri here we come, with Xena the Warrior Princess!"

Thursday, 3 August 2006
The next morning we packed our back and were all ready to get back to Kuching town to change our bas tickets. Stephanie, who travelled to Bako from Miri, told us that it takes 15 to 16 hour to reach Miri not 13 hours as assured by the bus ticket agent. Hence, we wont be able to reach airport in time if we stick to current bus schedule. We have no choice but to change our tickets.

It was our last day here and since the food at the cafeteria was really cheap, we decided to go for our breakfast. Unfortunately, it was the same old mee/nasi goreng with fries, nuggets and sausages. Sigh!

We wanted to reach Kuching early, so took the first boat back to the village and the first bus to the city. Upon reaching Kuching town, we headed straight to the bus agent to change our bus tickets. We requested for the ticket to be changed on Friday morning so that we can still make it in time for cultural village today. However, the agent only managed to change the ticket a day earlier, meaning today. We were left with no other choice, so agreed. Hence, our trip to cultural village is cancelled and ended going back to our initial plan of visiting Niah cave.

Phew! Big task was over. Since it was our last day in Kuching, we decided to go for last minutes shopping and then have a good banana leaf lunch at Satok as Akka was vegetarian today. Yah, finally Indian food! The food was ok but the mango lassie was superb. After eating like pig, we rushed back to our hostel to collect our bag. We quickly showered, repacked and rushed to the nearby bus stop. We were informed that the road to long distance bus stop would be jam by 3 o’clock, hence need to leave soon as the journey to long journey bus stop takes approximately 45 minutes. With 4 heavy bags, we rushed down the hill and headed to the bus stop. We made it on time and paid only RM2 instead of paying RM20 offered by both Uncle Eddie and the travel agent. Anyhow, we managed to reach there earlier then expected. Hence, lingered around till the bus departed at 4 o’clock.

Even though we took the express bus to Miri, it practically stopped at all major cities in Sarawak beginning from Sri Aman up till Miri. Hence, we got the opportunity to view most part of Sarawak by just sitting on the bus. It was cowboy town all the way. As time passed by and it was getting darker, most towns looked creepy, so we never got down the bus. It was about 12 o’clock when we reached Sibu town and I wished Akka, as it was her birthday today.

Friday 4 August 2006:

I could not sleep, as people were walking in and out of the bus. As it was getting late night, the bus was moving faster and faster on the zigzagged road that was in bad shape. Nevertheless, it was amazing how the bus driver managed to avoid holes and take sharp turns so smoothly without streetlight.

Finally after endless drive, we arrived Batu Niah at about 6 o’clock in the morning. Even though we initially planned to get down there to go Niah cave, since we were not so sure about the places, it seems better to go to the information centre in Miri to collect information before going anywhere.

Two hours later, we finally reached Miri town. It was nothing like I expected. The bus stopped at the regional long distance bus stop, located 10 minutes away from the town. Upon reaching there, we refreshed our self and took a bus to the Tourist Information Centre. Upon our arrival at the Tourist Information Centre, an old man approached us and offered unlicensed tour package to Niah for only RM80. Looking at the sight of the old man, we declined and headed straight to the Tourist Information Centre. Unlike Kuching, the officer here was not friendly. She assured us that there are backpackers lodge or hostels in Miri and the only cheapest place to stay along Yu Seng road. When we asked about local transportation, she assured us that the local busses are not reliable and it was best for us take a cab, hire a tour agent or simply drive there. When we asked about the offer made by the stranger outside, she said it was a good deal and asked us to consider it. But, she warned us to take his full name, phone number, ic and car number for safety purpose. How stupid can she be to give such advice, and stupider of us to take such advice!

We walked out looking for that old man, but instead another man approached us. We managed to persuade him to take us to Lambir Hill and Niah cave as well us find us a cheap accommodation for about RM60 each. He agreed. As the agent warned us, we took his name, ic, phone and car number. He was a local and known as Hainan but we called him Pak Cik.

We drove along North Yu Seng road to find our cheapest hostel/motel in town. After going in and out several hotel, we finally managed to get Muhibah Inn for RM50 a night fully equipped with 2 bed, aircond, tinny fridge, tv, kettle and heater. However, it was rather shabby and smelled of cigarettes. Since it is going to be one night only, we agreed. We quickly packed our small bag with musli, a bottle of mineral water, towel, first aid kit and a knife. Yes, KNIFE, which I brought to use it for camping. In spite looking so cool, both of us were really scared.

Before heading to our first stop at Lambir waterfall, we asked Pak Cik to take to the nearest bank. We banked in all the money we had with us for safety purpose except for RM200 for him and our dinner. We though it was the best. So holding our life in one hand and knife in another, we entrusted a stranger, in a strange town, to take us around unknown places. It was indeed a bad idea but sure was glad we had guardian angel by our side all the way.

It was a gloomy, rainy day, yet we continued our journey to Lambir Hills. After 2 hours drive, we reached the park. The park ranjer informed us that the waterfall was closed for renovation. Sigh! So we headed to the next destination, Niah Cave. To get to Niah Cave, we have to by pass the Batu Niah town, where the stopped in the morning. From that spot, it’s about another 30 minutes drive in the village. Not a single bus by passed there. Sure glad we had Pak Cik. Upon arriving there, we headed to the park headquarters to register.

In order to get to Niah Cave, we first have to cross a river by sampan and then walk for about 3 km on slippery wooden plank similar to Bako. The wooden plank continued to the cave. It was dark and smelly. We walked and walked and looked for the ancient drawing but found nothing. After lingering around for a while, we headed back to the headquarter using the same trail. Pak Cik was already waiting for us at the end of the riverbank looking pretty annoyed, as we were late. Nevertheless, he was such a nice Pak Cik and took us to near by town. Then he drove back to Miri using different road, the coastal road to show us the different part of Miri. He took us to the famous Hawii beach and showed us where the rich and famous lived. The house was so huge; it was 3-4 times bigger then what one would get in KL.

Entrance of Niah cave

Niah Trail...an old bridge

The bridge that leads toward the cave

A little fan faced stripped worm was on the walking path all the way

ME entering Niah

Niah cave facing the interior of the jungle..very misty due to rain

Niah cave entrance

Not pattern on cave wall but hangging bats

Inside Niah cave

We finally reached Miri by 5 o’clock. We persuaded him to takes us to Friday market. He could not understand the need for us to go the market as both of us was vegetarian and all that was sold in the market was non-veg food. Upon reaching the market area, we paid him the money as agreed and told him that we would go back to the hostel by our self. We also requested him to send us to the airport tomorrow. He agreed.

The Friday night market in Miri was very interesting. Unlike Satok, here the main item was food. Food was everywhere. The smell of the food was so good, even by being vegetarian we can assure the food would actually taste nice. From fruits to vegetables to tits bits, everything was cheap. It was like heaven for food. Unfortunately, there was nothing there for us to eat, so we headed back to our creepy hotel to bathe. We come out again for dinner. After walking for sometime searching for India food or at least vegetarian food, we finally spotted one at a food court near our hotel. Though it was an Indian shop, owned by Indian, run by Indian from India, it had absolutely no vegetarian dish as everything he served had either belacan or dried shrimp. Moreover, he even served beef. Exited looking at fellow Indians, the only thing he managed to serve us was rice, tosai and dhall. Feeling irritated, we forced the food into our stomach, paid him and left the place quietly.

Since we were both not satisfied with our dinner and it was after all Akka’s birthday, we mutually agreed to eat second round of dinner, to a Chinese vegetarian restaurant. I was not so hungry so just ordered side dishes; but unfortunately, they served it with rice anyway. Akka ordered Sarawak laksa, a cross over of pale curry mee and laksa. The food was simply horrible but at least we had the taste of local food specially the local jungle fern. Feeling so stuffed, we walked to the nearby supermarket to get mineral water before walking back to our hotel to pack our bag. We slept early.

This is how the fern looks like..(it taste like lady finger) -from net

Yummy Manggo Lasi -it taste as ggod as it looks

Sarawak-Day 2-"Back to basic!"

Monday, 31 July 2006:

Similar to Sabah, sun rises very early in Sarawak. Hence, we started our journey early. The initial plan for today was to go Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre to the Orang-Utans and then to Sarawak Cultural Village. However, we first need to get tickets to Mulu.

We packed our small bag with musli bars and sachets of lemon tea and walked to Jalan Carpenter for breakfast. To be fair for both of us, Akka decided to go for simple bread and coffee breakfast at a café we passed by last night called Black Bean. Unfortunately, it was not open. Since we were already in Jalan Carpenter, we mutually agreed to eat at Chinese Food Centre where the famous mee kolok is served. The food court that was described as excellent spot for breakfast, turned out to serve the worst drink, serves no toasted bread and Akka’s mee kolok had nothing but MSG. Sigh! There goes our good breakfast!

Putting aside the horrible food, we continued our journey to MAS building to purchase our tickets. Unfamiliar with the places, we followed the waterfront route to get to MAS building near Hilton. Just then, Akka spotted a tour agent arranging 4-hour trip to Bidayuh Longhouse also know as Annah Rais Long House. We told the agent that the offer was indeed fascinating but we interest was purely on visiting Orang-Utans at Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre. Since both the Annah Rais Long House and Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre were in the same route, after a along negotiation, the tour agent compromised for RM160 for two to go to Annah Rais and Semeggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre. However, our journey ends at the park as we refused to pay any penny more. Since the lonely planet assured us that there would be a local bas heading back to the city, quickly agreed with the offer, paid and assured him we will be there by 10 o’clock.

We continued our walk to MAS building, which was easily locatable. However, we were informed that beginning 1 August 2006, all rural flight services will be handled by a new company called FAX, Air Asia’s subsidiaries which was just two blocks away. Sigh!

The fair for Miri-Mulu and Kuching-Miri was very expensive, as we did not book it in advanced during the promotion period. Since our main agenda was to climb the Pinnacles, we booked Miri-Mulu-Miri flight at cost price. However, we had choices to go to Miri. We could either save time by spending more flying there or pay half the amount travelling on a 15-hour bus ride. Since budget was of our main issue, decision was made to travel buy bus.

By the time we finished with our booking, it was already 10 o’clock and hence, requested the tour agent to pick us up at the Air Asia office. Instead of the tour agent, an old man, Uncle Eddie picked us up with his old Volvo. The moment we left the place till we reached Annah Rais Long House Uncle Eddie never stopped talking. Annah Rais Long House is the oldest Bidayuh Long House located 1 ½ hour’s way from the Kuching town on foothills of the Penrissen Range bordering Kalimantan. We had wonderful ride, experiencing dazzling countryside surrounded by green mountains and plantations. The place was so quiet, not single vehicles were on the road besides ours.

The outside view of Annah Rais Long House. The zinc roof stop shows touch of modernisation in rural area.






Annah Rais Long House was indeed a long house and was built using nothing but bamboo and absolutely no nal. Though there are now elements of modernisation through the usage of zinc. The long house accommodates several families to live under one roof and separated only by bamboo walls. Hence, everybody has their own door. Most houses are well equipped with modern furniture and electrical things (even ASTRO) depending on their incomes.










Inside view of long house








An old lady weaving rattan to make traditional mat










Traditional stair at longhouse. There is absolutely nothing to hold on as while climbing up.

Cooking stoves. Cooking are done outside during festivals

We then came to a room called “Baruk”, where several skulls were tied together and hung above a special burning area. It was too creepy, so we did not stay there long. Further up, across a little bridge towards hilly area, there were several individual brick houses. According to Uncle Edie, these people are still part of the tribe but choose to live independently depending on their income.

This is the Baruk, the spiritual room.

The skulls hanging at Baruk.








Me and Uncle Eddie at Baruk

After wondering around for sometime, we headed back to longhouse. We passed by a little shop selling young coconut and homebrew liquor called Tuak. What a bizarre combination! Headed for the coconut, but instead was offered the Tuak. We declined at first, as we were in deep jungle of Sarawak, with unknown people and drinking strange liquor sounded really bad. But curiosity kills, and we ended up taking a sip of it. It was so bitter and horrible. He then offered us another glass filled with herbs. The herb water was nice and sweet. So we ended up buying a packet for ma and pa as it can help to reduce pressure. However, we were so reluctant to carry it back as the herbs looked a lot like ganja. But the guy assured us that the local will know its herb and we need not worry.

This is the home brew liquor, Tuak that we drank

From Annah Rais Long house we managed to persuade Uncle Eddie to stop at a nearby waterfall with no extra charges before heading to Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre. He was assuming we would pay him extra money to wait, but we kiasu sisters have already made our mind to take the bus back to the city, which would only cost us about RM2.00 each. Nevertheless, we took his contact number and told him that we will call upon arriving from Bako in two days time.

The beautiful waterfall near by Annnah Rais Long House

The Semeggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre was similar to Orang-Utans sanctuary at Sepilok in Sabah. Since the feeding time was only at two, we walked around the park till we got bored and hungry. My stomach was growling but we didn’t stop for lunch, as the park does not offer food or accommodation. Instead, we waited for the Orang-Utans to be feed! After waiting for sometime, at about one something, the Orang-Utan finally arrived at the main complex of the sanctuary, not walking but swing, from one tree to another. The guide put a huge basket of fruits, coconuts and breads at the feeding platform not far from us. He made some funny noises and upon hearing it, they all moved closer, grabbed as much as they can, stuffed it in their mouth, both hands and a foot and swung away to eat elsewhere. We were lucky to see them, as most Orang-Utans are set free and the only one that returns are the orphaned or illegally caged one.

The green park at Semenggoh Rehabilitation Centre

Orang-Utan, stretching out their hand requesting food from the park ranger

Orang Utan grabbing food from the feeding platform

The fat male Orang-Utan eating alone in the jungle

From there, we walked to the jungle via plank walk to a viewing area to see wilder Orang–Utan. Unfortunately, there was only one huge male Orang-Utan there, as the young were afraid to approach the fruit basket. We stayed there for a while, but since the last bus to Kuching passes Semenggoh at 4 o’clock, we had no choice but to leave. Besides, it takes approximately 30 minutes to reach the entrance of the park. After sitting there for about 10 minutes, we realised that not a single taxi or bus by passed the park. We got panicked and enquired from the guard. According to him, no buses to the city bypasses there except for express busses. Upon hearing that, we got more panic. Just then, a local tour agent was heading out of the park, and the guard requested him to drop us at Kuching town. He agreed and charged us RM5 each. We quickly agreed and jumped into the mini van. Thank god! Angels do always come in different form.

The tour agent dropped us at the Visitors Centre. Since we will be leaving to Bako tomorrow and be back only on Wednesday to continue our journey to Santubong, we had to purchase our Miri tickets upfront. Hence, we hunted for bus ticket agents in Main Bazar instead of going to long distance bus stop. We managed to get tickets for Friday afternoon. He assured us that we could reach there in time to take the flight to Mulu.

Happy with our ticket, we headed to waterfront for river cruise. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it in time and so settled for tambang (river ferries) to go across and visit the Istana, built by Charles Brooke, for about 50 cents each (one way). Unfortunately, the Istana is now being used as the governor’s house, so we were unable to get in. Sigh! Instead, we headed to Main Bazar to shop do more shopping. We were rather thirsty decided to get a good cup of coffee in Black Bean at Jalan Carpenter. The coffee was simply yummy; we ended buying a packed home.

Behind Black Bean café was our hostel. Hence, we headed back to hostel, bathed, changed and went out again to hunt for food. It was going to be a yummy dinner as we have been starving for two days now. Since it was our last night in Kuching town and to be fair to Akka, it was best to go for sea food as by the time we arrive back to Kuching on Thursday, Akka would be vegetarian and would missed her opportunity to taste the local seafood. After long arguments and fighting on the street of Sarawak, I finally managed to persuade her to eat seafood. That was the easy part. The difficult part was searching for Top Spot Food Court again! After elongated hours of walking and asking around we finally managed to find the car park building. Assuming that the food might be a bit costly, we quickly cashed out money from the nearby ATM. But to our surprise for a large plate of vegetable (for me), one huge crab and a plate of huge prawn only cost us about RM50 including our drinks. Yah, Sarawak is indeed great.

The famous Top Spot Food Court above huge car park building.





Felling so stuffed, we lingered for a while and walked back home. It was about 30 minutes walk and by the time we reached our hostel, we were totally exhausted. Yet, we had another task to do before we leave to Bako. Since we managed to save on our flight tickets, we decided to spend it on Santubong Beach. We quickly called the Santubong Beach and booked a room on Thursday. Feeling so satisfied with that, we slept with joy.