Tuesday, August 1, 2006

Sarawak, Day 5-6: "Miri here we come, with Xena the Warrior Princess!"

Thursday, 3 August 2006
The next morning we packed our back and were all ready to get back to Kuching town to change our bas tickets. Stephanie, who travelled to Bako from Miri, told us that it takes 15 to 16 hour to reach Miri not 13 hours as assured by the bus ticket agent. Hence, we wont be able to reach airport in time if we stick to current bus schedule. We have no choice but to change our tickets.

It was our last day here and since the food at the cafeteria was really cheap, we decided to go for our breakfast. Unfortunately, it was the same old mee/nasi goreng with fries, nuggets and sausages. Sigh!

We wanted to reach Kuching early, so took the first boat back to the village and the first bus to the city. Upon reaching Kuching town, we headed straight to the bus agent to change our bus tickets. We requested for the ticket to be changed on Friday morning so that we can still make it in time for cultural village today. However, the agent only managed to change the ticket a day earlier, meaning today. We were left with no other choice, so agreed. Hence, our trip to cultural village is cancelled and ended going back to our initial plan of visiting Niah cave.

Phew! Big task was over. Since it was our last day in Kuching, we decided to go for last minutes shopping and then have a good banana leaf lunch at Satok as Akka was vegetarian today. Yah, finally Indian food! The food was ok but the mango lassie was superb. After eating like pig, we rushed back to our hostel to collect our bag. We quickly showered, repacked and rushed to the nearby bus stop. We were informed that the road to long distance bus stop would be jam by 3 o’clock, hence need to leave soon as the journey to long journey bus stop takes approximately 45 minutes. With 4 heavy bags, we rushed down the hill and headed to the bus stop. We made it on time and paid only RM2 instead of paying RM20 offered by both Uncle Eddie and the travel agent. Anyhow, we managed to reach there earlier then expected. Hence, lingered around till the bus departed at 4 o’clock.

Even though we took the express bus to Miri, it practically stopped at all major cities in Sarawak beginning from Sri Aman up till Miri. Hence, we got the opportunity to view most part of Sarawak by just sitting on the bus. It was cowboy town all the way. As time passed by and it was getting darker, most towns looked creepy, so we never got down the bus. It was about 12 o’clock when we reached Sibu town and I wished Akka, as it was her birthday today.

Friday 4 August 2006:
I could not sleep, as people were walking in and out of the bus. As it was getting late night, the bus was moving faster and faster on the zigzagged road that was in bad shape. Nevertheless, it was amazing how the bus driver managed to avoid holes and take sharp turns so smoothly without streetlight.

Finally after endless drive, we arrived Batu Niah at about 6 o’clock in the morning. Even though we initially planned to get down there to go Niah cave, since we were not so sure about the places, it seems better to go to the information centre in Miri to collect information before going anywhere.

Two hours later, we finally reached Miri town. It was nothing like I expected. The bus stopped at the regional long distance bus stop, located 10 minutes away from the town. Upon reaching there, we refreshed our self and took a bus to the Tourist Information Centre. Upon our arrival at the Tourist Information Centre, an old man approached us and offered unlicensed tour package to Niah for only RM80. Looking at the sight of the old man, we declined and headed straight to the Tourist Information Centre. Unlike Kuching, the officer here was not friendly. She assured us that there are backpackers lodge or hostels in Miri and the only cheapest place to stay along Yu Seng road. When we asked about local transportation, she assured us that the local busses are not reliable and it was best for us take a cab, hire a tour agent or simply drive there. When we asked about the offer made by the stranger outside, she said it was a good deal and asked us to consider it. But, she warned us to take his full name, phone number, ic and car number for safety purpose. How stupid can she be to give such advice, and stupider of us to take such advice!

We walked out looking for that old man, but instead another man approached us. We managed to persuade him to take us to Lambir Hill and Niah cave as well us find us a cheap accommodation for about RM60 each. He agreed. As the agent warned us, we took his name, ic, phone and car number. He was a local and known as Hainan but we called him Pak Cik.

We drove along North Yu Seng road to find our cheapest hostel/motel in town. After going in and out several hotel, we finally managed to get Muhibah Inn for RM50 a night fully equipped with 2 bed, aircond, tinny fridge, tv, kettle and heater. However, it was rather shabby and smelled of cigarettes. Since it is going to be one night only, we agreed. We quickly packed our small bag with musli, a bottle of mineral water, towel, first aid kit and a knife. Yes, KNIFE, which I brought to use it for camping. In spite looking so cool, both of us were really scared.

Before heading to our first stop at Lambir waterfall, we asked Pak Cik to take to the nearest bank. We banked in all the money we had with us for safety purpose except for RM200 for him and our dinner. We though it was the best. So holding our life in one hand and knife in another, we entrusted a stranger, in a strange town, to take us around unknown places. It was indeed a bad idea but sure was glad we had guardian angel by our side all the way.

It was a gloomy, rainy day, yet we continued our journey to Lambir Hills. After 2 hours drive, we reached the park. The park ranjer informed us that the waterfall was closed for renovation. Sigh! So we headed to the next destination, Niah Cave. To get to Niah Cave, we have to by pass the Batu Niah town, where the stopped in the morning. From that spot, it’s about another 30 minutes drive in the village. Not a single bus by passed there. Sure glad we had Pak Cik. Upon arriving there, we headed to the park headquarters to register.

In order to get to Niah Cave, we first have to cross a river by sampan and then walk for about 3 km on slippery wooden plank similar to Bako. The wooden plank continued to the cave. It was dark and smelly. We walked and walked and looked for the ancient drawing but found nothing. After lingering around for a while, we headed back to the headquarter using the same trail. Pak Cik was already waiting for us at the end of the riverbank looking pretty annoyed, as we were late. Nevertheless, he was such a nice Pak Cik and took us to near by town. Then he drove back to Miri using different road, the coastal road to show us the different part of Miri. He took us to the famous Hawii beach and showed us where the rich and famous lived. The house was so huge; it was 3-4 times bigger then what one would get in KL.




Entrance of Niah cave


Niah Trail...an old bridge


The bridge that leads toward the cave


A little fan faced stripped worm was on the walking path all the way

ME entering Niah


Niah cave facing the interior of the jungle..very misty due to rain


Niah cave entrance
Not pattern on cave wall but hangging bats


Inside Niah cave


We finally reached Miri by 5 o’clock. We persuaded him to takes us to Friday market. He could not understand the need for us to go the market as both of us was vegetarian and all that was sold in the market was non-veg food. Upon reaching the market area, we paid him the money as agreed and told him that we would go back to the hostel by our self. We also requested him to send us to the airport tomorrow. He agreed.

The Friday night market in Miri was very interesting. Unlike Satok, here the main item was food. Food was everywhere. The smell of the food was so good, even by being vegetarian we can assure the food would actually taste nice. From fruits to vegetables to tits bits, everything was cheap. It was like heaven for food. Unfortunately, there was nothing there for us to eat, so we headed back to our creepy hotel to bathe. We come out again for dinner. After walking for sometime searching for India food or at least vegetarian food, we finally spotted one at a food court near our hotel. Though it was an Indian shop, owned by Indian, run by Indian from India, it had absolutely no vegetarian dish as everything he served had either belacan or dried shrimp. Moreover, he even served beef. Exited looking at fellow Indians, the only thing he managed to serve us was rice, tosai and dhall. Feeling irritated, we forced the food into our stomach, paid him and left the place quietly.


Since we were both not satisfied with our dinner and it was after all Akka’s birthday, we mutually agreed to eat second round of dinner, to a Chinese vegetarian restaurant. I was not so hungry so just ordered side dishes; but unfortunately, they served it with rice anyway. Akka ordered Sarawak laksa, a cross over of pale curry mee and laksa. The food was simply horrible but at least we had the taste of local food specially the local jungle fern. Feeling so stuffed, we walked to the nearby supermarket to get mineral water before walking back to our hotel to pack our bag. We slept early.







This is how the fern looks like..(it taste like lady finger) -from net


Yummy Manggo Lasi -it taste as ggod as it looks

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