Friday, September 12, 2008

SOLO BACKPACKING - Discovering Sabah- Kinabatangan

Day 6: 23 July 2008
Back to Basic

My first day as solo backpacker. Wishing so much Murphy's Law would come in action again. To cut the long story short, Pak cik Samsir, fail to come but manage to send his friend, Pak Cik Latif to send me to Inanam bus stop along with my tickets. Sabahan are great!

This were the real thrill begins...

I reached Inanam bus stop again at about 7 o'clock. I took Pak cik Latif's number (which i normaly don't do) and headed straight to the counter. It was early but the bus was already there so the guy and he said I could hop into the bus. It sure was better then sitting out and all eyes upon me like I have tentacles on my head!

So happy that I was not cheated, I quickly headed for my phone to message Guna. Deng..deng...deng ..deng..the phone missing. I panicked. I quickly throw all belonging in my back pack madly searching for the phone but no where to be found. I was pretty sure I had it when I left X'plore Backpacker and when I was in the taxi. I guess I must have dropped it in Pak Cik Latif's car. I quickly went our of the bus to the nearest phone both (luckily it was working) and dialed my number first. No sound, meaning its no where around here! So I took a deep breath and dialed Pak Cik Latif s number (thank god I took his number). He picked up and I told him about my missing phone. At first he said there weren't any but he said he will look for it! So I hang up, waited sometime and dialed again. Luckily, he picked up the phone and he said yes. But he was half way to the city and was reluctant to drive back till I persuaded to pay him. Moment later, he came back to return my phone. He was so shy and refuse to take the money so i told him get himself a good meal today. Sabahan are great! And my guardian angels are always by my side!


The bus only left at 7.45 a.m. So I quickly messaged Guna telling about the good news but not about the missing phone. The journey to Sandakan takes about 4 long hours so I simply relaxed enjoying the beautiful scenic Mount KK. I reached Sepilok Junction at sharp 1 o'clock, just in time before the group departs at 2 o'clock. Not knowing where the Ops Base/B&B was, I just walked and walked and almost anyone who by passed me stooped to tell me the direction. I guess they thought I was walking towards the Sepilok Orang Utan Santuary, which was really far.

The moment I stepped into the ground, everyone greeted friendly, specially Natt (I think that its name) who also guessed my name correctly. So impressive. Either because I am an Indian and it was easy to spot or he has good ability to spot people. To long in the jungle I guess!

I filled up the form, did my payment and of for lunch! Imagine that, the food is served before the journey begins. The food was simply lovely. Hardly a place I have travelled that have served various dishes for vegetarians (OK, OBS in Lumut did great job too!). There were at least 20 of us including a happy little french girl.

Most of the group mates



I have never seen any child so happy skipping in the jungle


The briefing was at 2 p.m. and we were all asked to gather at the eating area. Natt reminded us that, it was best if we leave behind valuable things! I totally agreed, I had whole lots of money for my KK Mountain trip (which I cant imagine to loose as there is no ATM at mountain and they don't accept card) and as well as my IC. So I didn't want to take any chance of loosing it.

At about 2.30 p.m. we were scheduled to depart to Uncle Tan's Wildlife Camp. The groups was then dived into 3 little groups. Everyone quickly unpacked and packed and repacked and handed in their bags to the van/taxi driver. The van departed to the old ferry site at the Kinabatangan River. It was estimated to take about 1 hour 30 minutes to reach the site.

As mentioned, Murphy's Law seems to be in action again! The van's tyre punctured and we had to stop in the middle of a strange looking highway beside oil palm estate. Luckily it was daytime. But our taxi driver was so superb, he managed to changed it in seconds without any help.

Our taxi got flat tyre..but the driver changed in just seconds..

Journey to Kinabatangan River: Uncle Tan's camp

We continued our journey till we reached old ferry site at Lower Kinabatangan River at about 4 o'clock. We were separated once again in groups to be transported to Uncle Tan's base. At that point the staff were not as friendly as it was mentioned in the web site. They were all stern and moody but I guess they have to for our safety purpose. I went in on the first boat accompanied by the backpacks. The ride was superb as it was drizzling. In less then an hour or so we reached the base camp.


The Kinabatangan village..

The old ferry site at Kinabatangan River- pick up and drop of Uncle Tan


The stunning calm Kinabatangan River


Boat ride to Uncle Tan's Camp


The place was filled with mosquitoes. I didn't realise it will start even at the river bank so smartly put my mosquito repellent in my big backpack. Luckily some one there offered me his. We waited and waited and soon our bags arrived. We were asked to carry our own bag. So I head down to the river bank and pointed at my bag. Up till then no one knew I was Malaysian. So when I said, "Beg biru dengan mangga! (Blue bag with padlock)", the chap in the boat was stunt and didn't move an inch. I repeated slowly this time, he looked back and he was still standing blurry. His friend quickly moved forward, showed him the bag and smiled. "You faham Bahasa Melayu (You understand Malay!)", someone asked. I nodded and quickly grabbed my bag, smiled and said "Saya orang Malaysialah. Kalau tak tahu saya kena gantung diri saya ( I am Malaysian and if i don't know how to speak I need to hang my self") . Hearing that everyone laughed! That was so funny.


Since the rest of the group have not arrived yet, we decided to help them carry it up. We waited and waited and waited no sign of the other boat.

The curiosity with the guys was not over yet. They were always smiling and saying something in local language which I absolutely understood nothing! So much more for a Malaysian. One couldn't take it and popped out questions after questions. Why I was travelling alone/Why was my friend not following/How was my parents/boyfriend let me go alone/Why I choose to come to jungle. The question went on and on and luckily, I was saved with the arrival of the two boat.


The arrival place where we got attacked my mosquito..lots and lost of them

We quickly gathered our bag and headed to the camp. It was only ten minutes walk, but the track was so muddy. The camp was connected by a long plank walkway which lead to the main lodge, rooms looking like cages at both sides and bathrooms. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by our host, Remy! First things first, we were given our room. And even that had to be divided fairly. Of cource me being single, was the last to be dumped and I was sent to stay with Micheal and Mikela, the couple form Denmark.

The room is pretty basic, a bin to store foods, mattress to sleep, sheet given upfront and mosquito net above our head. Oh yeah, the light that works at 6 p.m. and goes off by 12 o'clock. Due to bad behavior by the monkeys and rats there, we need to make sure the rooms are always locked. So monkey out, us in. Isn't that ironic!




My cage


Settled with the room and food, the next important thing was toilet. Luckily it was just around the corner. But unluckily it was too basic. I console my self no bathing for three days! But what made me laughed was this:



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Ta da!

There weren't any flush..so I laughed so laud in the loo...people would have thought I was mad..

By 7 o'clock, we were suppose to gather at the lounge area for briefing. The group was separated into two, seniors and the new arrivals, us. We went to the lounge are and they headed to the dinning area. Our host, Remy was suppose to start with the brief. He explained of the program arranged for tree days, dos and don'ts. Basically, the third is just relaxing. It lasted less then an hour before we headed for our dinner. Dinner was simply superb! I don't miss home at all!


The main block


My roomie chilling out at the lounge


Eating area


My delicious dinner..imagine 5-6 different type of dishes in the middle of the jungle

We gathered again after dinner for our first night safari by boat. It was scheduled at 9.30 till 0.30 p.m. We were asked to bring torches, water as well rain coat just incase it rains! The groups were separated again in three scorpian, King Fisher and Orang Utan, and I was send with Tony' group, the Scorpian.

Tony is a old timer, so we are hopping to see great stuff. The water level was not so high, so we had walk back to the river bank for our boat ride. In group and with torches, we walked back in the same muddy track. This time it was even harder, as we could not see the ground. And I loved it. The smell of the jungle, the creepy sound, the erie feeling was simply superb!

Along with us on the boat was Ross, a shy chap that sat inform of me and hardly say anything. His job was to be in charge of the spot light. However, half of the time Tony was calling me to tell Ross to move about!

I simply loved the ride. It simply reminded my previous night safari boat ride at Kalis Wet Land, Beaufort finding Proboscis and fireflies. The feeling of soft cold breeze on my face in dark as the boat speed away to unknown end was superb! I was actually dozing of till Tony stopped to show us wild lifes. From birds (Kingfisher and Owl) to monkey and even crocodiles! Simply awesome.


It was getting late. We were already took extra time with the safari so Tony turned his boat back at about 11.30 p.m. Upon our arrival, we all opted to get a pair of rubber boots to avoid the muddy surface. I found perfect one and was heading back to the camp. I didn't want to get to bed early so stopped by the lounge to chat with my fellow travellers but ended up chatting with the boys and laughing at their pictures framed on the wall of fame. Some persuaded me to stay back to see Civet Cats in action, but I was reluctant as it was my first night there in the jungle, and I didn't want to take any chances! So I left and headed back to my cage!

I had good sleep. My mind was actually in peace after along time. I really needed that! Time by myself.


Day 7: 24 July 2008

Where Have All the Animal Gone!


We suppose to begin our day at 6.30 a.m for our first morning safari. But I was wide awake by 5 a.m. and was waiting for the unheard morning call. By 6.30 a.m, amazingly all was gathered at the lounge and we walked back again to the boat at river bank. The rubber boat helped. This time around, we changed boat, from Tony to Lan and I was not surprised! It didn't matter who drove or navigate the boat, all we want was wild life! Big huge wild life!

This time, I was requested to sit at the back. Knowing me not knowing how to shut my mouth, I chatted with my guide basically talking about Sabah and wild life. The three boat separated in opposite direction and we went to the wrong side of the path. Why? Because we hardly saw anything expect for bird and long tail monkey. So whats more to do then to chat and it preety much annoyed the rest as they were thinking he was telling me something more to myself then the group. I can't imagine translating to them about Malaysian politic, while we sit and wait for the bird to fly or monkey jump. That was real silly.

The truth was, there was absolutlely nothing to show. I guess they expected the wild life to pop out to say helo there mate! But we were not in Africa, only Malaysia, where half the wild life have gone in to the ancestors tummy (so I was told by my friend while trekking Pinnacles)!

Felling disapointed, we headed back to camp for our breakfast. Our next activity was on due at 10.30 a.m. My mind was extremely in peace that reading abook seems not right! So I sat there writing my journal, that was untouched since the day I was with Guna!


1, 2, 3 Ready or Not Here I come....

Our next activity begain at 10.30 a.m. and we were handed over to Loy, a young funny chap. Loy was amazing spotting wild animal (specially insects), plants and etc. But what I liked most about him was his honesty to say that he hated morning jungle walk as its, boaring and difficult to spot animal. Imagine, a guide telling that! But he was good.

Our introduction was interesting...

Intially, just like the rest he didn't know I was Malaysian. But I like his techniques of wanting to know everyone's name and making them feel important. Superb strategy! He was bring us to swampy area and spotted a brown milipede near by a tree. He quickly took it in hand and started to explain. Bla..bla..bla..yada..yada.. yada and the only thing I remmeber now was the almond smell relesed by that creature! As he was stroking the creature, I was curios as that creature in his hand will curl. So I asked, "Does it Curl?" and he went "Huh!". "Curl i said slowly!" He still looked lost. To make both our life easy I simply asked him in Malay, "Gulung ke?" He was even more stunt then before and was silence for a while. Instead on answering me back, he siad "Wow! You understand Malay!", he said. " I am Malaysian!" I replied. Hearing that he laughed, feeling embaraced. Imagine if I know more language and bullied all!


Loy, holding some tinny little creature


I was telling him that Sarwak had more insects then Sabah. He was shocked. But i was rather shocked both this places was only filled with insects. While it was easy to spot in Sarwak, here we had no problem with the help of Loy!

Our mission today was to spot Orang Utan. He spotted them two days ago and was hopping it will remain there for us to see. So Loy called and called and called, no reply form them! He managed to find their habitat, his food and even his poops, but they were no where to be seen. Dissapointed, we headed back. Nevertheless, the walk in the jungle was indeed nice.

Animal at Lower Kinabatangan..

Long tail monkey




Bettle that curls like a ball why it shy



Beautifully sturctured tree




Beautiful wild Mushroom...the tip are pointed upwards!


Not mushroom again silly..its worm poop..cool huh!

Tranatula skin


Funny lookin inscet but not spider..as Loy said it had only 6 legs


Ugly beared pig

Kingfisher during night safari



It was then time for lunch. Lunch was superb. I am not missing home cooked food anymore. Need all that for the climb!


The next boat safari was scheduled at 5 p.m. after our tea break at 4.30 p.m. The animal don't come out in hot sun so we given free time for ourself. I was so lazy to sit in the launge, I slept in my stuffy room. The place was hot!

About 4.30 p.m., we took our tea break and headed for another round of boat Safarai with the same guide. This annoyed the rest of the group and they quickly requested me to translate what ever being spoken by us. Hmm, malaysian politic, life and Sabah was not something they want to know but I guess they were annoyed for the fact that they didn't see any animal earlier and it was all his fault.

Lan the boat guide..


So we went the opposite direction ofthe river. To my suprise we saw many things and the most awaited...Orang Utan as well Proboscis. It so cool. we made him stop at the river bank, got down on the land and stand right below those Orang Utan watching them eating, stroking and pooping! It was superb.


Watching Orang utan in action


We headed back to our boat and continued spooting more animal, but nevertehless, our chatting didn't reduce. They kept on asking what were talking about so I explained to them especially the strory about the male probosois' life. Even though they were happy with my eplanation but still wished it came out form the guide's mouth. So I kept my mouth shut!

It was getting a late and we were supposed to get back to camp for dinner. He suggested we use the lake way and I quikly nooded. Instead of shutting his mouth, he mentioned about some creepy story. The moment he said that, I snaped this picture and got pretty scared and stop snaping pictures . The journey back was the most erriest moment in Uncle Tan!


You see how the picture turn out...May be I am being paranoid!

The group headed back. The dinner was only at 9 o'clock, so we all gathered at the lauge to chat. Just then the generator went off and we all sat in the dark for along time. Yet we never stop chatting. It was so nice to explain the real thing about Malaysia rather then the rubbish they awalys read. Moment later, the electricity was back but we never stopped chatting. We were soon separated once again to sit in different groups, this this we were the seniors and the juniors went of to listen to the briefing.

Dinner was good and moment later we were devided to groups again for night jungle track which was exiciting But was not was the muddy ground that made it difficult to walk. Anyhow, nothing unusual was spotted except for the fact that we saw live Tranatula, scorpins, birds and more insect. I was getting tired of litlle animal and was waiting for MR. S. But we never saw any!

Went back to camp and decided to stay back for Civet Cat. Waited and waited and waited, finally when the light went of at 12 oclock and the guide asked us to shut our torches, it slowy sneaked out his hidding running between the dinning and resting area. The problem with all was that hey were not patient. Every time it coming runing in, the were runing chasing him out with red lights and cameras. So it kept on running. One time, the guide there cought it in the cabinet and kept there for sometime. It made some funny noices. He asked them all to be ready to snap pictures when he realese it. The french couple was all set with his camera to snap pictures. The moment he opened the door, it freed for its life.

That was really torcher! We were like paparazi's! All it wanted was scrapes and we were tourturing it. So what my guide did was to sneak some bread form the store and scated around the dinning area. Slowly, it came, looked around and quietly peacefully ate his food giving me ample of time to snap its picture. I know we should not have doen that, but looking at it so sad it reminded me of rusty! I was happy we did that. Moment later it ran away. I sat there chated with the guide. But the truth was I wasnt really listening to the confersation, (except to answer some screept stuff being asked) but actually enjoing the quiet momenet in deep forest, facing beutiful lake, shining moonlight! That's peace. I was happy with quiet moment and waived good bye to the guide and headed back to room to sleep.

Moment with Civet

Day 8: 25 July 2008

God bye peace.....

I guess hearing to much creepy thing made it hard for me to sleep. Its been three days since I bathe so I took my last bottle of mineral to remove thick layer sof dirt form my skin. One of the group was all set to hunt fo Orang Utan. I was just happy packing my bag. Finished with the task, I headed out to snap pictures and talking with everyone. Breakfast was only at 9 o'clock.

We were scheduled to depart at 10.30 a.m. The third gorup arrived but in no vain. They didnt manage to spot Orang Utan at all. So packed our bag, waived good by to all and was shipped of the the boat to be sent to the old ferry site at Kinabantangan river. We used the same Danau Girang way and the view this time was so magnificient. Our boat man once again was Tony, and this time we spotted the crocodilies agaian I guess there is something supernatural power with Tony to atrract them.

The Danau Girang lake..



It was another one hour journey back. Upon our arrival we were separated in groups, Semporna, KK and Ops Base Camp at Sepilok. we were served delicious lunch agaian. The 5 of us departed to KK at about 2.30 p.m on a big bright yellow bus.

Our journey took about 4 hours to reach KK Mountain at about 6.30 p.m. By the time we reached Ranau and town, it was drizilling and the whole place was misty. Me. Caspaer and muriel got down and registered for our room. They didn't have enough cash so went to teh nearest town to find money changer while I bathed with hot shower scrubbing away inches of dirt, did some calling, ate my packed instant packed poridge and headed staright to bed. It going to be long way tomorrow.

Note:

For more information about Uncle Tan wildlife Camp please reffer this site: http://www.uncletan.com/

SOLO BACKPACKING- Discovering Sabah- TAR

Day 4: 22 July 2008
More Sun sand beach and hmm

It was my final day with Guna. Time passes by so quickly. We were having so much fun together. Today was going to be tight schedule. Woke early and went straight to jetty to catch the first boat to Manukan. Unfortunately we took the wrong tour agent and was asked to wait. Waited and waited and waited for almost an hour before the agents called us and requested us to change different tour agent as they didn't manage to find any customer! Sigh!

Luckily there was no additional charges. In no time all procedure was done and we were sent to the boat along with our snorkel stuffs (life jacket and mask that cost us RM15 each). We we put on a boat along with another 8 people.

As we excitedly enjoyed the view from the speed boat and chatting with the boat man when suddenly, deng..deng..deng.. Guna panicked and realised her bag was missing! We immediately searched. Looking at us being so anxious, the boat sense something was missing, quickly turned the boat and called the agent to check if the bag was still there. Luckily it was still there at the same spot. The boat man and his friend was laughing like mad man and went on on about teh silly act! It was so embarrassing.

The new view of the Jetty ...




Simple breakfast at the jetty





Hey Nemo, We are Coming to Get Ya...

We we dropped of at Manukan and given time till 11 a.m before we depart to the next island. The agent at the Island took us to the first life guard and requested us to swim there (not sure why) but I am guessing to avoid being late. The most embarrassing part was being stared at especially when they know we were Malaysian! So I started conversation with them, of course what else other then finding nemo! The gave me some clue where to find the fishes and was told its best when we feed the with breads. So off Guna went to buy the fish food and off I went diving into the sea (while they were watching and laughing at my rotten swimming skill!).


Unfortunately, there were no nemo but manage to see many big colourful fishes. Most of it was bigger the what I saw in Mabul. Tired, I headed back to the sea waiting Guna and complained to the boys there. All they did was laugh and more staring at me and then at Guna when she arrived. With that food in hand, we both jump to the sea. Second attempt was better as we had food with us. But we were not satisfied. We walked out of the water and headed further up where the rest of the crowd was.

There were more life guard here. By then they all new that we were Malaysian (modern technology, how news travel fast!) and was being really friendly. I kept on whining to the guard saying I can't see nemo. He suggested that I swim really far into the sea (imagine getting that from life guard!) where the buoy situated if I want to sea beautiful fishes. Sigh! It was sure was far and it means that we need lots of energy to swim there. To excited, both Guna and I agreed and jumped into the sea. The current was so so strong that it drifted us away to th eleft seid eof teh shore. So we went for second attempt. This time with more wiser suggestion form the boys. I swam and swam and swam so hard against the current and finally managed to grab the life buoy. As I was catching my breath waiting for Guna, I suddenly realised she was no where near, being drifted away to the other part of the sea and was basically screaming asking for help. " I cant..I cant.. I am tired!"

I was scared, tired and angry. I scolded her there and then and pulled her while I swam to the shore. I was almost giving up when one of the angel swam and helped me out. Probably they were laughing at all the drama that was happening there with binoculars nad decided to help when I reached the shore. Sigh! So embarrassing.

Nevertheless, the boys was good. There quickly offered to take us to the sea once again. Guna quickly agreed not thinking that she was unable to swim just moment ago. So I told him to hold her hand while I will swim all by myself all over again. This time I was extremely tired and the life buoy seems far far away. Just when I was about to give up, my another sweet angel in black swam and helped me. We stopped at the life buoy and chatted for along time in the middle of the sea before he send me off to Guna. He showed me the most magnificent view anyone could get under the sea. Nemo, lots and lots of them. Many colourful fishes swam across us, so near that we were able to touched them with our bare hand! I thought I died and went to heaven, again! Moment later, we swam back to the shore. As we came out of the sea, there were smiles in all of our faces, us seeing nemo and them helping us poor girls finding nemo. They were absolutely awesome!

By then it about time for us to depart. We waived good bye and left. But not satisfied, so we headed back to snap pictures with them. People there would have though we were either long lost friend or some crazy fools. We waived good bye again and headed back to jetty(after Guna spend along time in the loo) and realised the boat has left us and the next boat will only be there at 12 o'clock. Sigh! So we had no choice but to wait.



Entrance to Manukan- beautiful walkway



Our sweet, kind helpful angels that made our dream come true to see nemo swimming freely in the sea

leftover bombs

me after my snorkel..look how curly my hair is

beautiful view of Manukan beach


The Sapi Island.....

Since, Guna's flight was schedule at 5.20 p.m, it was for us to leave the island by 1 p.m. so that we can do some last minute shopping and eating. We quickly bathed and waited to be shipped back to the jetty. But the boat went to Sapi first before heading back to jetty. Giving us the opportunity to at least step on the island that we paid RM17 each. Sigh! I have no regrets.


Unable to snorkel here as we missed the 11 o'clock boat coz we were busy finding nemo and chatting with our angels in Manukan ....





Shoppin, Shopping, Shopping: Exploring KK Market

Before going for shopping, I went back to Sutera Sanctuary in Wisma Sabah to book hostel in the park it self as I could not find any other accommodation near by. It cost me another RM80 ringgit just for dorm and breakfast!

We walked to the markets and shopped till it was time for us leave. We went back and Guna bathed and packed for the final time. We went out to eat but almost all shops were cleaning up so ended up in chicken rice shop. I just ate my muesli. At about 4 p.m., the taxi arrived (and it was not Pak Cik Samsir but his friend!) and we were off to airport. Send Guna back and headed back to the to the town all by myself.

The markets...





The locals laid back life..








The beginning of the new journey....


By now, I was all by myself. It was the beginning of my solo backpacking trip and I felt it was best to start with good meal (rawa tosai and masala tea). A superb Indian food. Walked back to my hostel and had a long chat with Jenny. Later in the night, I went to the nearest Internet cafe and tried to download my pictures but failed. So went back and slept.



Everything starts with food..my rawa tosai for dinner at lotus restaurant api api centre..damn good...


Note:

Airport: Taxi-RM20 (inform which terminal air asia or MAS)

TAR:

The Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is accessible via 15 – 20 minutes speedboat ride from Kota Kinabalu. The departure and arrival point for the boat transfers is at the KK Ferry Terminal, situated next to the Malaysia Royal Custom Department. Boat transfers to the islands are available daily from 7.30am to 5pm.

Boat transfer fares to the Islands are listed as follows: *Fare per pax/boat

Manukan Island - RM23
Mamutik Island- RM23
Sapi Island-RM23
Sulug Island-RM25
Two island hops-RM33
Three island hops-RM43
Four island hops-RM53
Boat charter for one island-RM204
Boat charter for Malahom Bay-RM204
Boat charter for Police beach-RM204

* A levy of RM50 per boat will be charged for special pick up times or overnight stays
The following rates are not inclusive of charged terminal fee (RM1); each entrance fee is valid for 5 islands per day. Entrance fees: RM3